tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65560509048529882552024-03-13T04:03:24.663-04:00Wire RapperSharing information on wire and using wire in designAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.comBlogger36125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-72272706344899232042017-10-09T22:02:00.002-04:002017-10-09T22:02:45.213-04:00How I Use ProtectaClear<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<section class="entry fix">
I know my next order of business was to talk more
about using Gun Blue and Liver of Sulfur. However, some questions
recently arose that pertained to Protecta Clear jewelry sealer and how I
use it. I’ve messaged several people about it, but then I forget how
much I’ve told each individual, so I thought I would put down exactly
what I do here, and hopefully there will be fewer Oh-Oh’s later on. Not
that I mind your questions, at all. In fact, I welcome them, but I do
want to make sure I’m clear on some points relating to my use of this
product.<br />
In relationship to jewelry and the jewelry community as a whole, the
conundrum seems to be “to seal or not to seal.” I didn’t seal my jewelry
for a long time, but my love for the art and comments from customers
about tarnish led me to seek out a product I could seal with that
wouldn’t ruin what I made. I have used ProtectaClear for about 6 years
now. I did a copper test when I lived in Florida, one of the most humid
states in the US, and blogged about that in 2013.
That was a really long time ago, so I should probably do it again. Now,
I’m in Texas, another super humid state. More on that later.<br />
<a data-rel="lightbox-gallery-33nQ" href="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/MySpace10092017.jpg?ssl=1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img alt="" class="alignleft wp-image-5907 size-medium" data-attachment-id="5907" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1507558241","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="MySpace10092017" data-large-file="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/MySpace10092017.jpg?fit=1024%2C680&ssl=1" data-medium-file="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/MySpace10092017.jpg?fit=300%2C199&ssl=1" data-orig-file="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/MySpace10092017.jpg?fit=1200%2C797&ssl=1" data-orig-size="1200,797" data-permalink="https://ggchambers.com/how-i-use-protectaclear/myspace10092017/" height="199" src="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/MySpace10092017.jpg?resize=300%2C199&ssl=1" width="300" /></a><br />
So…since
Gary and I RV full time in a 38-foot fifth wheel, space is hard to come
by. This little area is the space I use to seal my jewelry. I usually
only seal one to 10 pieces at a time, depending on what I am working on,
so this space works well. I have about 26 inches by 20 inches to work
with. See, you don’t need a huge work room to get this done.<br />
<a data-rel="lightbox-gallery-33nQ" href="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup1-10092017.jpg?ssl=1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img alt="" class="alignleft wp-image-5908 size-medium" data-attachment-id="5908" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1507558416","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Setup1 10092017" data-large-file="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup1-10092017.jpg?fit=1024%2C511&ssl=1" data-medium-file="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup1-10092017.jpg?fit=300%2C150&ssl=1" data-orig-file="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup1-10092017.jpg?fit=1200%2C599&ssl=1" data-orig-size="1200,599" data-permalink="https://ggchambers.com/how-i-use-protectaclear/setup1-10092017/" height="150" src="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup1-10092017.jpg?resize=300%2C150&ssl=1" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
This is what you need to get started: a couple old towels, and three
or four layers of wax paper. Make sure your towels are large enough to
cover the area you want to protect, in case of splashes. I’ll explain
that in a minute. The wax paper keeps your jewelry from sticking after
it’s been dipped.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a data-rel="lightbox-gallery-33nQ" href="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup2-10092017.jpg?ssl=1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img alt="" class="wp-image-5909 size-medium alignleft" data-attachment-id="5909" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1507558441","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Setup2 10092017" data-large-file="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup2-10092017.jpg?fit=1024%2C745&ssl=1" data-medium-file="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup2-10092017.jpg?fit=300%2C218&ssl=1" data-orig-file="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup2-10092017.jpg?fit=1200%2C873&ssl=1" data-orig-size="1200,873" data-permalink="https://ggchambers.com/how-i-use-protectaclear/setup2-10092017/" height="218" src="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup2-10092017.jpg?resize=300%2C218&ssl=1" width="300" /></a>You will also want to make yourself a good hook, similar to the one
shown. I use 18 gauge Half Hard copper wire and put a few bends in it
just to strengthen it a little. You want it to be six to 8 inches long,
depending on the container you use for your ProtectaClear.<br />
<br />
<br />
(Don’t forget, you can click on the pictures to enlarge them.)<br />
NOTE: Paper towels, you will need lots of paper towels! You should have about 4 layers close to your jar, as shown.<br />
<br />
<a data-rel="lightbox-gallery-33nQ" href="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup3-10092017.jpg?ssl=1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img alt="" class="alignleft wp-image-5917 size-medium" data-attachment-id="5917" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1507558580","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Setup3 10092017" data-large-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup3-10092017.jpg?fit=1024%2C719&ssl=1" data-medium-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup3-10092017.jpg?fit=300%2C211&ssl=1" data-orig-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup3-10092017.jpg?fit=1200%2C843&ssl=1" data-orig-size="1200,843" data-permalink="https://ggchambers.com/how-i-use-protectaclear/setup3-10092017/" height="211" src="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Setup3-10092017.jpg?resize=300%2C211&ssl=1" width="300" /></a>Here
you can see my entire set up. It all fits well into the small space and
is efficient. I found a glass jar at a hobby shop that has a wide
mouth, a little over four inches at the top when open. It allows me to
put a large cuff or pendant right down into the ProtectaClear. I try to
keep enough ProtectaClear in the jar to cover an average bracelet.<br />
One thing to remember is that ProtectaClear is a “solvent based”
sealer. What that means to you is this product can dissolve certain
things…like plastic gloves or a plastic container. Use a glass jar. The
annoying part is that the only type of rubber gloves your can wear that
won’t dissolve are too bulky to use in this process. So, I use blue
Nitrile gloves, as they are a little stronger than latex or common
household rubber gloves. Those go away quickly. Even though the Nitrile
will also dissolve, they do so slower than the others and I wear them
mainly to protect my hands and my lovely blue fingernails. I do,
however, try to avoid contact with the ProtectaClear as much as I can.
Hence, the creation of the copper hook.<br />
<br />
Anyhoo, this is my setup and what I use. I would preface your use of
this product by reading all the product knowledge base on the <a href="https://www.everbritecoatings.com/">Everbrite Coating</a>
website before you begin. It will save you a lot of headaches and
questions later on. If you do run into issues, give them a call. It’s a
family owned business and they are super helpful.<br />
<a data-rel="lightbox-gallery-33nQ" href="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Project-10092017.jpg?ssl=1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img alt="" class="alignright wp-image-5926 size-medium" data-attachment-id="5926" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1507555882","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Project 10092017" data-large-file="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Project-10092017.jpg?fit=900%2C523&ssl=1" data-medium-file="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Project-10092017.jpg?fit=300%2C174&ssl=1" data-orig-file="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Project-10092017.jpg?fit=900%2C523&ssl=1" data-orig-size="900,523" data-permalink="https://ggchambers.com/how-i-use-protectaclear/project-10092017/" height="174" src="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Project-10092017.jpg?resize=300%2C174&ssl=1" width="300" /></a>My project: I recently sold this bracelet that has been in storage
for a while and even though it had one coat of ProtectaClear, it did
tarnish.
I had also tried polishing it with a recommended paste polish. I cannot
stress enough that if you weave wire and do so very tightly, not to use
a paste or polish that could dry in the cracks. Getting that out is a
nightmare.<a href="https://www.everbritecoatings.com/"> Everbrite</a> has some new products to polish on their site I haven’t used, so if you are brave enough to try them before I do, go for it.<br />
<a data-rel="lightbox-gallery-33nQ" href="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/ProjectCleaned10092017.jpg?ssl=1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img alt="" class="size-thumbnail wp-image-5927 alignleft" data-attachment-id="5927" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1507558620","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="ProjectCleaned10092017" data-large-file="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/ProjectCleaned10092017.jpg?fit=900%2C563&ssl=1" data-medium-file="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/ProjectCleaned10092017.jpg?fit=300%2C188&ssl=1" data-orig-file="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/ProjectCleaned10092017.jpg?fit=900%2C563&ssl=1" data-orig-size="900,563" data-permalink="https://ggchambers.com/how-i-use-protectaclear/projectcleaned10092017/" height="150" src="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/ProjectCleaned10092017.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1" width="150" /></a><br />
What I did to clean this bracelet up without ever getting it damp in
any way, shape, or form, is to use my Dremel and some of the 3M colored
polishing wheels. It took me about 5 minutes with a 200 grit and here is
the result.
I know, right??? Amazingly clean, and no acid to worry about having to
neutralize before I seal. BTW, if you use something acidic based to
clean your jewelry before sealing, ya gotta neutralize that acid in a
soda bath and dry it completely before sealing. Any moisture or acid
will be trapped under the sealer, and you have tarnish…under the sealer.<br />
<br />
We are ready to seal. I do not recommend the Spray sealer. Tried it
and it does not level out good enough to make a good seal on woven wire.
Especially on tightly woven wire. And…unless you want a dull finish, do
not use the Satin finish sealer. They do make one, but again, I don’t
recommend it for jewelry for two reasons. 1) it’s dull, and 2) you have
to stir that stuff all the time to keep the finish even. If you’ve ever
used satin sealer on your furniture, you know what I mean. Use the
regular clear <a href="https://www.everbritecoatings.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=34&zenid=51db7e7d769533affa7f1f7ea9301ba4">ProtectaClear</a>, made specifically for Jewelry.<br />
<a data-rel="lightbox-gallery-33nQ" href="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping2-10092017.jpg?ssl=1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img alt="" class="size-thumbnail wp-image-5928 alignleft" data-attachment-id="5928" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1507558666","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Dipping2 10092017" data-large-file="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping2-10092017.jpg?fit=1000%2C1024&ssl=1" data-medium-file="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping2-10092017.jpg?fit=293%2C300&ssl=1" data-orig-file="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping2-10092017.jpg?fit=1025%2C1050&ssl=1" data-orig-size="1025,1050" data-permalink="https://ggchambers.com/how-i-use-protectaclear/dipping2-10092017/" height="150" src="https://i1.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping2-10092017.jpg?resize=150%2C150&ssl=1" width="150" /></a><br />
Take
your hook and place it somewhere around the piece you will be dipping
where the hook won’t get stuck, and slowly lower your piece into the
ProtectaClear. I must make a note here, or I would be amiss. Do not use
this product on soft stones, i.e pearls, Rainbow Calsilica, and others
with a MOH’s hardness rating of less than 4.5. You can test a piece if
you like, just to see what happens, but don’t do it on a finished piece
of jewelry, please. I’ve had great success on most stones. I did have a
Jade that became a little discolored, but it didn’t hurt the stone
itself. Use your best judgement. Nothing soft and noting porous. Oh, and
beware if you’re using dyed stones. If you don’t know if they are dyed,
once you dip them, you will. Most dyes will bleed into the
ProtectaClear. Remember…solvent based sealer! Okay, nuff said for now.<br />
I put the whole bracelet down into the liquid and let it sit for a
minute, and you can wiggle it around with your hook to make sure
everything gets covered.<br />
<a data-rel="lightbox-gallery-33nQ" href="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping4-10092017.jpg?ssl=1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img alt="" class="alignleft wp-image-5930 size-medium" data-attachment-id="5930" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1507558684","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Dipping4 10092017" data-large-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping4-10092017.jpg?fit=720%2C900&ssl=1" data-medium-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping4-10092017.jpg?fit=240%2C300&ssl=1" data-orig-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping4-10092017.jpg?fit=720%2C900&ssl=1" data-orig-size="720,900" data-permalink="https://ggchambers.com/how-i-use-protectaclear/dipping4-10092017/" height="300" src="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping4-10092017.jpg?resize=240%2C300&ssl=1" width="240" /></a><br />
Using
your hook, bring the piece up and out of the jar, holding it over the
opening so it can drain. Try not to drop it back into the liquid…you get
splashes that way, and you will be wiping them off of yourself and your
work space…or they will harden and become part of whatever they are
on. Yes, I still have a drop stuck to my counter top, but so far my
husband hasn’t noticed it. <br />
<a data-rel="lightbox-gallery-33nQ" href="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping5-10092017.jpg?ssl=1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img alt="" class="alignright wp-image-5933 size-medium" data-attachment-id="5933" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1507558701","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Dipping5 10092017" data-large-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping5-10092017.jpg?fit=1024%2C927&ssl=1" data-medium-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping5-10092017.jpg?fit=300%2C272&ssl=1" data-orig-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping5-10092017.jpg?fit=1050%2C951&ssl=1" data-orig-size="1050,951" data-permalink="https://ggchambers.com/how-i-use-protectaclear/dipping5-10092017/" height="272" src="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Dipping5-10092017.jpg?resize=300%2C272&ssl=1" width="300" /></a>Once the dripping slows down, we don’t want to waste the
ProtectaClear, gently set your piece down on your layers of paper towels
to soak up a little of the excess. Don’t let it stay on the paper
towel but just a few seconds, just long enough to soak up a little extra
liquid. We
want most of it to stay on your jewelry. You can quickly flip it over
if you want, too. ProtectaClear is a self leveling product and will not
develop drip marks. At least I have never had this happen.<br />
On that note, when dipping pendants, role up one end of your towels
and wax paper to make a little angle, and place your pendants on that
incline. That way, the excess will run down hill., and can be toweled up
with a paper towel after it has sat for a while. You should never
notice a drip mark.<br />
<br />
Now that you’ve done that, remember, no longer than a couple seconds, move your jewelry to the wax paper. as shown here. <a data-rel="lightbox-gallery-33nQ" href="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying1-10092017.jpg?ssl=1" title=""><img alt="" class="wp-image-5932 size-medium alignright" data-attachment-id="5932" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1507558720","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Drying1 10092017" data-large-file="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying1-10092017.jpg?fit=900%2C626&ssl=1" data-medium-file="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying1-10092017.jpg?fit=300%2C209&ssl=1" data-orig-file="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying1-10092017.jpg?fit=900%2C626&ssl=1" data-orig-size="900,626" data-permalink="https://ggchambers.com/how-i-use-protectaclear/drying1-10092017/" height="209" src="https://i0.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying1-10092017.jpg?resize=300%2C209&ssl=1" width="300" /></a><br />
<a data-rel="lightbox-gallery-33nQ" href="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying2-10092017.jpg?ssl=1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img alt="" class="wp-image-5934 size-medium alignleft" data-attachment-id="5934" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1507558814","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Drying2 10092017" data-large-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying2-10092017.jpg?fit=1024%2C868&ssl=1" data-medium-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying2-10092017.jpg?fit=300%2C254&ssl=1" data-orig-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying2-10092017.jpg?fit=1050%2C890&ssl=1" data-orig-size="1050,890" data-permalink="https://ggchambers.com/how-i-use-protectaclear/drying2-10092017/" height="254" src="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying2-10092017.jpg?resize=300%2C254&ssl=1" width="300" /></a><br />
Check
your jewelry after about 15 minutes. You will notice that some of the
ProtectaClear has drained off and began to pool. You can use your hook
and push your jewelry to another area on the wax paper. You can now use
some paper toweling to mop up the extra ProtectaClear. Be careful not to
touch the front surface of your cabochon or stone while it’s drying.
Now is a good time to turn your piece over, too.<br />
According to the <a href="https://www.everbritecoatings.com/">Everbrite Coating</a>
website, it should only take less than a day to dry. I usually let my
pieces finger dry ( dry to the touch ), and then re-dip them, and go
through the process again. This time, I let them dry overnight in a
safe, dry, spot, or for at least 24 hours before shipping. The product
has to “cure.” You can read more about that on the manufacturer’s
website. Once cured, you will have a lovely shiny product you will be
proud to share with your customers, family, or friends.<br />
<a data-rel="lightbox-gallery-33nQ" href="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying3-10092017.jpg?ssl=1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" title=""><img alt="" class="wp-image-5935 size-medium alignleft" data-attachment-id="5935" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"1507558852","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Drying3 10092017" data-large-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying3-10092017.jpg?fit=978%2C1024&ssl=1" data-medium-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying3-10092017.jpg?fit=287%2C300&ssl=1" data-orig-file="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying3-10092017.jpg?fit=1050%2C1099&ssl=1" data-orig-size="1050,1099" data-permalink="https://ggchambers.com/how-i-use-protectaclear/drying3-10092017/" height="300" src="https://i2.wp.com/ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Drying3-10092017.jpg?resize=287%2C300&ssl=1" width="287" /></a><br />
***Remember,
too…this is a chemical product. If you can’t ship it to a PO Box, which
you cannot, you know it isn’t safe to have around young children or
where pets can get into it. The paper towels should be thrown away in a
safe place, and you should use this product in a ventilated area. Take
care of yourself, too. Don’t hold your head over the jar and breathe in
the fumes while you are working! The chemical Data Sheet is listed on <a href="https://www.everbritecoatings.com/">Everbrite Coating’s</a>
website, if you care to read it.<br />
<br />
Once dried, it is non-toxic and clear,
and I have yet to find someone who cannot wear jewelry sealed with this
product, but that does not mean it can’t happen.<br />
<br />
Also, just because
your product has been sealed, does not mean, that if in the right
environment, your item cannot still tarnish. Never guarantee the item
will not tarnish. People do weird things with their jewelry, and there
is always that person out there that sets out to prove you wrong. Just
food for thought.<br />
<br />
I hope this article has been helpful to you if you’ve been
considering using the ProtectaClear product. I, personally, love it, and
will continue to talk about it and use it. Feel free to message me with
jewelry-related questions, but direct your chemistry questions to the
company, please.<br />
Have a wonderful day, and please…Stay Wired Up!!! gail<br />
</section></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-14315305797687068622017-06-13T15:19:00.000-04:002017-06-13T15:19:05.296-04:00Our Beloved Copper and Learning About Gun Blue - Lesson Two<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
To start out, I'm giving kudos to Szarka Carter of Magpie Gemstones. She is the one that turned me on to gun bluing for copper. Not personally, but I remember when I first started working with copper wire years ago, reading something she wrote about using it to oxidize her copper. And let me tell ya...I ran right out and got some, cause I really did not like using LOS (Liver of Sulfur)! It stinks, it's finicky, and well...you basically do not want to inhale it. More on LOS next time.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x6YV-n-mWiA/WUA4XGax_zI/AAAAAAAAA3Q/r42xYds6NQgG9obQnsboQvEPM1dBOp-DQCEwYBhgL/s1600/GunBlue%2B3oz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="400" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x6YV-n-mWiA/WUA4XGax_zI/AAAAAAAAA3Q/r42xYds6NQgG9obQnsboQvEPM1dBOp-DQCEwYBhgL/s200/GunBlue%2B3oz.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
Today's topic is Gun Blue, and using it on our lovely copper creations. First of all, let's talk safety. I know there are peeps out there that don't wear gloves, masks, etc, but I'm here to tell you that on Birchwood's Safety Data Sheet they have a Hazard Section that says, and I quote "DANGER! MAY INTENSIFY FIRE; OXIDIZER. TOXIC IF SWALLOWED. TOXIC IF INHALED. MAY CAUSE SEVER SKIN BURNS OR EYE DAMAGE. VERY TOXIC TO AQUATIC LIFE WITH LONG LASTING EFFECTS." Gun Blueing is a chemical solution, made up of 2 acids, a sulfate, and water. If you would like to download the Data Sheet for yourself, you can find it <a href="https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/getattachment/Resources/Safety-Data-Sheets/13125,-13132-Perma-Blue-Liquid-Gun-Blue.pdf.aspx" rel="noopener" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/chokingwoman.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="" class="size-thumbnail wp-image-5830 alignleft" height="150" src="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/chokingwoman-150x150.jpg" width="150" /></a>I never never never take a chance with any chemical, not on my skin, in my nose, or in storage. I wear rubber gloves from the dollar store, after I take off my rings and other jewelry...just to be safe. Who wants to accidentally darken their rings or watch, right? As far as not breathing in the stuff, if you have a window close by, you can open it slightly. If you have a fan, it would serve you well to use both of them, especially if you have any sort of lung issues. I have one and one-half lungs. Trust me, if you are standing over it for a half-hour or so, you need ventilation or a mask. And please, wear the gloves because of your skin, too. Why take the chance. I know, I make it sound really caustic, don't I? I've been using it for years, but with the safety measures I take, so far, so good.<br />
<br />
Perma Blue, the brand name for the Birchwood product, is also not good to be leaving around where the kids or your pets can get to them. I don't have to worry about that so much. I don't have kids around or pets right now (so sad). Perma Blue products do have child proof lids on them, but take extra measures to make sure your loved ones are safe, too.<br />
<br />
Like I said, I buy the larger size, which seems to last forever. When it comes (and they may not ship it to your PO Box, so just be aware of that.), it will come with a metallic seal. I do not peal the whole thing off; I poke a <br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8gUfPYpUrEQ/WUA4VfRGjrI/AAAAAAAAA3E/zRdlkSNhEp8Gl0xJijedlRJz-stsgnXwwCEwYBhgL/s1600/WED_6620.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1124" data-original-width="1200" height="186" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8gUfPYpUrEQ/WUA4VfRGjrI/AAAAAAAAA3E/zRdlkSNhEp8Gl0xJijedlRJz-stsgnXwwCEwYBhgL/s200/WED_6620.JPG" width="200" /></a>hole in it large enough I can squeeze some of it into my glass container. Use a screw driver or a sharp knife. Just remember to wash it off well, after your done...the knife or screw driver. Okay, you knew that...I just poke a hole because in my mind, it might help to keep the product fresher longer. I cannot, however, document that.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QgQb1ncMmiU/WUA4XCIdfvI/AAAAAAAAA3Y/ZwGglCpU0vQYWOo-_1tE162YMUp_Bh0MgCEwYBhgL/s1600/choking-dog-cartoon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="260" data-original-width="368" height="141" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QgQb1ncMmiU/WUA4XCIdfvI/AAAAAAAAA3Y/ZwGglCpU0vQYWOo-_1tE162YMUp_Bh0MgCEwYBhgL/s200/choking-dog-cartoon.jpg" width="200" /></a>Use a glass container to store the Gun Blue you are using in...one with a good lid, preferably metal. Get a container large enough to dip your items in. I use a wide mouth jar from Hobby Lobby. I keep the rest of my unused large bottle in a resealable plastic bag, just cause I like to be extra safe. Keep that out of reach of children and pets, as well. I cannot stress enough...there is no home remedy for swallowing this stuff. It would be an immediate visit to the ER!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/MySetUp.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" class="alignright wp-image-5825" src="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/MySetUp-295x300.jpg" /></a>Here is my set up, which I will talk more about when we actually get to using your Gun Blue. And, as you might notice, my wide mouth jar has a baggie between the jar and the lid. <br />
Here's why. My first jar's lid had a liner in it. I think it was some sort of coated pressed cardboard. This new container's lid did not. What I had was bare metal, but I thought...okay...I will give it a go.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YOPAxtyoWeA/WUA4V1u2n_I/AAAAAAAAA3I/5biSWLgG84cmiJWPWQE9vBBikgrH5o8tQCEwYBhgL/s1600/RustyLid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1010" data-original-width="1200" height="168" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YOPAxtyoWeA/WUA4V1u2n_I/AAAAAAAAA3I/5biSWLgG84cmiJWPWQE9vBBikgrH5o8tQCEwYBhgL/s200/RustyLid.jpg" width="200" /></a>Here is what happened.<br />
Nice lid, huh? <br />
Yep, for some reason this product can sweat, which it did, and it started to rust out my lid, probably my cheap lid, so I decided to use a baggie to give the lid a little more protection. I've been doing that for over eight months now and it's working. No problem.<br />
<br />
So...Here is the list of things you will need to work with Gun Blue on copper wire, besides the wire:<br />
<ul style="list-style-type: circle;">
<li>Gun Blue...like, no kidding, Gail</li>
<li>Rubber or Nitrile gloves</li>
<li>Glass jar with a wide mouth</li>
<li>Some sort of handmade copper hook ( I forgot this, but it's to dip your product in the Gun Blue. More on that later)</li>
<li>Ventilation and/or a face mask (not one for Halloween!)</li>
<li>And a towel to work on</li>
</ul>
I guess that is about it for your introduction to Gun Blue. Yeah, you wanted more, didn't you? Baby steps, kids. Next time I will be discussing using Liver of Sulfur, much the same way as I did here. After that, we get to work. We will be using both side by side and you can be the judge. On paper, at least. I get stuck with the smell. Love you all. Don't forget...<br />
Stay Wired Up!!!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-6044090529100501852017-06-08T18:39:00.000-04:002017-06-08T18:39:10.243-04:00Introduction to our Beloved Copper and a Little Bit on Oxidation - Lesson One<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a data-mce-href="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/NatCopper.jpg" href="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/NatCopper.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" class="alignleft wp-image-5784 size-full" data-mce-src="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/NatCopper.jpg" height="208" src="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/NatCopper.jpg" width="220" /></a>I've seen a lot of question on Facebook and the Internet from
different skill levels of people working with copper wire or plate about
why copper does what it does, like kink and break. I've worked with
copper wire and copper items for about seven years now, and decided to
share some of my research to possibly help any of you along in your
quest to work with copper. Some of this information may seem a little
too "scientific" for your personal taste, but I figure if we are really
going to understand what we are working with, we need to know it inside
and out, and I'm starting at the beginning, cause I'm a "why" person.<br />
<br />
Copper,
as you probably know, is a soft or malleable metal, and one of the few
natural metals not silver or gray in color. It is highly conductive to
electricity and heat (meaning both travel easily through copper), but
copper does not easily corrode. That should mean something to us that
use Gun Blues or Liver of Sulfur on our copper wire or sheet, but we'll
talk about that later.<br />
<br />
<a data-mce-href="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/index.jpg" href="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/index.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="" class="size-thumbnail wp-image-5787 alignright" data-mce-src="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/index-150x150.jpg" height="150" src="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/index-150x150.jpg" width="150" /></a>The simplest answer I could find about why
copper is softer than some of the other metals, and why it is so
conductive, is because of its molecules size and shape. They are all the
same size and shape, and cubic in nature, so they move easily against
and around each other. So...copper is soft because the molecules move
easily inside the copper structure, wire, etc. When we work with copper,
like bending over and over, it begins to get harder to use. We call
this "work hardening."<br />
<br data-mce-bogus="1" />
<a data-mce-href="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/KinkedWire.png" href="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/KinkedWire.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="" class="wp-image-5796 size-full alignright" data-mce-src="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/KinkedWire.png" height="174" src="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/KinkedWire.png" width="240" /></a>Work
Hardening happens because the copper molecules start to become strained
and/or deformed in shape, and defects form in the molecular structure.
And...like a great friend, if we push it and push it, it WILL break
down. Copper will say, "I've had enough of you!" and break. The moral of
this little story for you copper users is to bend your wire or work
with your metal slowly. If you are in too much of a hurry, and push your
metal or wire too fast, it will work harden much quicker, it will bend,
kink, and break, as I said earlier, because all that movement deforms
the molecular structure. Be patient with your wire and metal, and you
will be rewarded.<br />
<br data-mce-bogus="1" />
Then
there is Annealing, which is a whole different thing. Annealing, in my
terms, is a healing process. When we anneal copper, usually around 700F
degrees (make sure you have an annealing pan, please!), it actually
causes the metal to grow new grains that are free of stress within the
existing molecular structure. I used to think that the molecules just
spread out, making it easier to work with again, while in all actuality,
with heat, the metal grows these new grains, which do away with all the
molecule deformities previously a part of our wire or metal. Ya gotta
love physics!<br />
<br />
<div class="mceTemp">
<b>Corrosion vs. Oxygenation:</b></div>
Liver of Sulfur causes copper to oxidize quicker than it would
normally. Here's the difference; Corrosion is rust, like you might see
in iron...it's that dark scaly and flaky layer, which is the actual
breakdown of the metal. However, Oxidation is when the metal is exposed
to oxygen and/or other atmospheric conditions and chemicals and becomes
patinated. The natural patina on copper is copper oxide, and like on the
Statue of Liberty, is a greenish or a green blue color. This natural
patina actually acts as a protective layer to copper. It keeps the
bottom layers of the copper from breaking down.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XaLHBj_CNwo/WTnQe0cUvUI/AAAAAAAAA2g/9TrkQehFCXk3u7pQRNEkmfgZVQ1-ry2ZQCLcB/s1600/rust.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="196" data-original-width="257" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XaLHBj_CNwo/WTnQe0cUvUI/AAAAAAAAA2g/9TrkQehFCXk3u7pQRNEkmfgZVQ1-ry2ZQCLcB/s1600/rust.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
VS</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zzJbSk8tH5o/WTnQgc-3pXI/AAAAAAAAA2k/2IkgG2gmQ0YcO-cIem0lps7DqU1CWHXDQCLcB/s1600/OxidatedCopper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="193" data-original-width="261" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zzJbSk8tH5o/WTnQgc-3pXI/AAAAAAAAA2k/2IkgG2gmQ0YcO-cIem0lps7DqU1CWHXDQCLcB/s1600/OxidatedCopper.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
Liver of Sulfur is
basically an Oxidizer, moving along the oxidation process on copper,
silver, and some other metals. However, any wire or metal that is
"coated" or non-tarnish will not respond to LOS, for short, because the
chemical cannot get to the actual metal's surface. If you are buying
craft wire, it will, most likely, NOT oxidize, as most craft wires are
coated or non-tarnish. LOS does not corrode the copper. It merely leaves
it with a brown to black patina.<br />
<br />
Gun Blue is another product you
can use to oxidize your copper, but I will write more on that in a day
or two. Promise...unless I get run over. :-P<br />
<br />
While I'm not the
best at keeping up with blogging, I think my muse is back. Yeah, I've
said that before and have been a real dolt about it, but I was a trainer
by trade for many years, and it's time for me to get my crap together
and be more helpful to others and not just creative.<br />
<br />
This is going
to be an ongoing study, so stay tuned. In the next couple of days I
will be talking about using Gun Blue vs LOS on our wire, not just
copper, but sterling, etc. I will also be writing about how to use these
two chemicals effectively, the use of distilled water vs. tap water,
cleaning of your jewelry, and so on. Stay tuned, my friends! and...<br />
<br />
Stay Wired Up!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-64166414233092631982017-01-04T13:25:00.000-05:002017-01-04T13:25:08.572-05:00Pantone Colors for 2017 – Wow! It’s Greenery!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
You can find this post on my website here:<br />
<a href="https://ggchambers.com/pantone-colors-for-2017-wow-its-greenery/">https://ggchambers.com/pantone-colors-for-2017-wow-its-greenery/</a><br />
<br />
If you've subscribed to the blog here, it is still safe to read it off my website. Sign up on <a href="https://ggchambers.com/">https://ggchambers.com</a> for all my new posts. There are more to come! Thanks for your patience and being a loyal follower.<br />
<br />
Stay Wired Up! </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-71432959716797324542016-06-23T14:02:00.000-04:002016-06-23T14:02:25.444-04:00New Posts on the Wire Rapper Blog<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
While my main blog has moved to my website: <a href="https://ggchambers.com/" target="_blank">ggchambers.com</a>, I will continue to post links to the new blog posts here. I hope you enjoy them. Have a wonderful day, and...Stay Wired Up!<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://ggchambers.com/working-with-the-pantone-colors-of-the-year-2016/" target="_blank">Working with the Pantone Colors for 2016</a><br />
and<br />
<a href="https://ggchambers.com/wire-weaving-and-refining-your-tool-belt-part-1/" target="_blank">Wire Weaving and Refining your Toolbelt - Part 1</a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-64537703563745430632016-04-13T11:42:00.000-04:002016-04-13T11:42:24.081-04:00Never Give Up<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a data-mce-href="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Depressed2.jpg" href="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Depressed2.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Depressed2" class="alignleft wp-image-4694 size-medium" data-mce-src="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Depressed2-144x300.jpg" height="200" src="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Depressed2-144x300.jpg" width="96" /></a>You know...I've struggled with blogging as of late. There are a
couple of reasons, but mostly just feeling "stale" in my thoughts. I
try to make lists of things to chat about, and trust me, I do not lack
for things on my list. I guess it is just a matter of feeling like
someone might want to read what I write, that anyone would value my
thoughts. After all, I am just like the rest of you, a struggling artist
trying to make a living at what I love.<br />
<br />
I did a show this last
weekend, and actually it wasn't a huge show, but just a local festival,
the Texas Wine and Art Festival. I have done this festival for four
years, with a break in there when we lived in Florida for a year. It has
always been an absolutely wonderful show for me from the get-go, and
has always yielded me some of my greatest sales. Not only that, but I
have met some wonderful people and wonderful friends. Some of us have
booths next to each other every year, and all of us hug and chat when we
see each other.<br />
<br />
What I want to relay in this message is this: I
have been weaving wire for four years now, and it is starting, finally,
to be more than just a love for me. Not only am I making money at it
(not huge money. Don't get me wrong.), but I am starting to see return
customers. And even more importantly, I am seeing people who truly
appreciate the art that I represent. I see the real love for what I do. I
get so excited when I hear someone remark that they have never seen
anything like my work, or that they love the designs and the neatness,
or that they just can't live without a piece for their collection. I
also love to see that husband set down his credit card when he sees his
wife fall in love with that special piece of jewelry she would just love
to have. Many wives or girlfriends have walked out of my booth with
tears in their eyes. How can I not want to be a part of that???<br />
<br />
Have
I struggled? You bet!! I've struggled to the point of giving up all
together. Many a time have I sat in tears, wondering if I should just
give it all up. After all, what I do is not cheap. Wire and stones are
all expensive, and to keep stock so I can keep working at a consistent
pace is a struggle, as well. Many of you may be chuckling at this point,
because you know that I am a complete and utter cabochon addict and
know I will never ever run out of stones to wrap! But, like anything,
there are costs to what I (we) love to do.<br />
<br />
I thank God every day
that I have a husband that supports my love for art, and it doesn't hurt
that he is also an artist. Not everyone is as fortunate as I am. Not
every artist can do shows, and not all of us display our work as we
should to get the kudos we all deserve.<br />
<br />
My recommendation to you
all, whether you display your work or not, is to keep on keeping on. If
you love what you do and want to keep doing it, check out your local art
galleries. You would be surprised at how many are more than willing to
not only display your work, but to sell it for you. I know it's a big
step for some of you, but it will help your confidence level to do so.
It doesn't mean you will sell tons, but it doesn't mean you won't,
either. Can't afford a tent? No biggie. Find some shows that are inside,
and not all shows are expensive. Shoot, I have to save money just to
accumulate enough to do the shows I do! You can do it, too. Whatever it
takes, right?<br />
<br />
And it depends on where your gallery is at. Tourist
areas are the best, because out-of-towners like to take something home
with them that reminds them of their trip. I have some work in a local
gallery and don't sell a lot there, but once in a while a piece or two
goes home with a new owner. It's the exposure and the wonderful feeling I
get when something finds a new home! Getting a check translates not
only into money, but into the pleasure of knowing someone else valued my
work. I also have work in a rock shop some miles away, just as another
suggestion.<br />
<br />
My point is, don't give up. If you are struggling, put
your work in a shop somewhere and value your own work. If you don't, no
one else will. This was probably the most difficult thing for me to
absorb...that I was worth it...that my work was worth it. The struggle
builds character, and character creates value. Not just the value in
your work, but the value in yourself. Value yourself. Feel good about
YOU, not just about what you do, but if it takes valuing your work
first, start there. Then, let it seep into your soul until you can place
value in yourself.<br />
<br />
<a data-mce-href="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/images.jpg" href="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/images.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="images" class="alignright wp-image-4697 size-full" data-mce-src="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/images.jpg" height="155" src="https://ggchambers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/images.jpg" width="224" /></a>I love you all, and am so grateful for all of
you that are in my life or are just reading this blog! Remember, value
comes from within. Now...never give up! Never, ever give up! <br />
Stay Wired Up! Gail</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-68194546821503319852014-10-05T14:40:00.000-04:002014-10-05T14:40:31.871-04:00To Seal or Not To Seal; That is the Question.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RCLWPETD3PY/VDGPbCEhETI/AAAAAAAAA0o/aIFALSBk394/s1600/AC52mmAmmonite06292014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RCLWPETD3PY/VDGPbCEhETI/AAAAAAAAA0o/aIFALSBk394/s1600/AC52mmAmmonite06292014.jpg" height="186" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This necklace was sealed twice.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I know a lot of you are reading the posts about using sealers, so I want to pose this question to you all, and to others that create or collect beautiful cabochons. Here is why.<br />
<br />
I choose to seal almost all of my jewelry projects with ProtectaClear to help protect the patina of the wire and to make my copper and sterling silver more desirable to buyers. I have done lots of shows where people love the antiqued copper but are afraid to buy until...I tell them I sealed it and discoloration should not be as big of an issue as they think. I do not lie to them. Sometimes discoloration does still happen, even though it might not be to the extent as it would had it not been sealed. And...I will reseal my items a second time for free if requested, and before it is shipped. Buyer's discretion.<br />
<br />
Some are afraid of copper turning their skin green. Some are afraid it won't hold it's color over time, and with sterling...well, the normal customer just doesn't want to deal with keeping sterling bright. Those issues and the issue of sensitive skin is why I started to seal my jewelry, even those that contain show or gem quality stones.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M-VNv-nVI7Y/VDGP1LkQPCI/AAAAAAAAA0w/AgP9iEpUg9Y/s1600/ACChrysocolla08232014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M-VNv-nVI7Y/VDGP1LkQPCI/AAAAAAAAA0w/AgP9iEpUg9Y/s1600/ACChrysocolla08232014.jpg" height="200" width="135" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was sealed once.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />I want to know what "you" think about this. When the normal person buys a piece, they want it sealed. But out there are people who "collect." What I want to know is what do you think? Do you think that show quality or gem quality rocks should be sealed? And if not, is it because you believe it will harm its value?<br />
<br />
I want to hear from you. I will post all comments (unless you write really naughty comments that others might not want to read). I am impartial here, but this is something that I, personally, want to know from my readers. Let me know what you think, and I thank you for your time in advance.<br />
<br />
You know what I always say...Stay Wired Up!!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-26371616062323796252014-09-09T11:33:00.002-04:002014-09-09T11:33:50.561-04:00My Sealing Setup; Or How To Make the Most Out of Limited Space<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hey, I'm back! Just like a penny, you can't get rid of me. The moved sucked a lot out of me, but I decided "not" to let it get me down, and now I need to catch up.<br />
<br />
I still get a lot of questions about sealers, what to use, what it means to "seal" a jewelry piece, and my set up. So...I decided to let you in on a little secret of mine in relation to my setup. I use about 2 foot of space in my (what used to be my) kitchen to patina and seal my hand crafted jewelry. Here it is:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7DS_hu6zfzs/VA8WDjvp2OI/AAAAAAAAAv0/gEoJuNIxqDw/s1600/_WED4476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7DS_hu6zfzs/VA8WDjvp2OI/AAAAAAAAAv0/gEoJuNIxqDw/s1600/_WED4476.JPG" height="212" width="320" /></a></div>
This is my little setup and it actually works quite well for the space I had available to me. I lived in 525 square feet, so I had to make the best of what I had! Just to be clear, the items in the background that aren't on the towel were "not" part of the setup. That's normal kitchen stuff, of course. I suppose you could use a blender, but the end result would not be pretty...enough humor.<br />
<br />
The wide mouth glass jars to the left are what I keep my ProtectaClear sealer and gun blue in. FYI, I got them at Michaels in the wedding department. They were $5 each and have a good seal in them. That is a must, especially when storing gun blue. I stored the gun blue in a plastic container for a while and it seemed to sweat or something and became a little too messy for me. You don't want to store your ProtectaClear in plastic either. It is a solvent based product, and according to the manufacturers plastic storage is not a good idea. They recommended glass to me when I talked to them so that is what I use.<br />
<br />
You will also want to keep a supply of paper towels around. I buy them in bulk and write them off, cause I use a ton of them. Of course you will want gloves of some sort. I will tell you this, You might want to get them in bulk, too. The ProtectaClear can eat through those pretty quickly, at least the way I work. I am a slob and get stuff everywhere. If you are pretty careful not to get ProtectaClear on your gloves, they will last. I tried regular kitchen rubber gloves and they lasted longer, but like I said I am touchy feely, so my gloves don't last very long at all. We should all probably invest in some lightweight chemical gloves, right? Oh, don't get me wrong. The ProtectClear is non-toxic! It just likes to make dinner out of latex, rubber, or plastic.<br />
<br />
Next up is my 3-tier bracelet holder. I wrap wax paper around the arms and tape it. When I dip bracelets or necklaces, they hang from there to dry or cure. As gooey as ProtectaClear is, it doesn't stick to the wax paper. Yeah!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xq3gF08aMHw/VA8ZQ51gKCI/AAAAAAAAAv8/FzwyhoqMrA4/s1600/_WED4482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xq3gF08aMHw/VA8ZQ51gKCI/AAAAAAAAAv8/FzwyhoqMrA4/s1600/_WED4482.JPG" height="132" width="200" /></a>I also use a couple of handmade hooks. I made these out of 18 or 16 gauge wire and use them to retrieve the jewelry pieces from jars. You can make them as short or long as you want, and you can use them over and over.<br />
<br />
The entire set up is on two layers of old towels (I'm paranoid and I rent!) and a layer of wax paper. I keep several layers of paper towels next to the jars. After dipping, whether in gun blue, LOS, or ProtectaClear, you want to dab off the excess on the paper towels. I let the piece hang on the hook for a few seconds over the jar, because waste not want not. Then I place it on the paper towels face up for just a few seconds to soak up any remaining extra, and place the item on the bracelet holder.<br />
<br />
What about earrings, you say? I use the cupboard knobs over my work area and a nice metal shirt hanger. I hang the hanger from the cupboard over the wax paper area, and wallah! Earrings will dry like a dream floating in the air.<br />
<br />
The really great thing about a set up like this is it's easy to use and easy to store. I leave the wax paper on the bracelet holder for several uses. I just rotate it around the arms until it looks spent. That goes in the closet...or behind the sofa. The jars, lids tight, go back in the cupboards. If you have kids, you might want to label them poison and put them up where they can't get to them, but then you probably already knew that. My gloves, if they lived, stay on the towels and wax paper, as do the hooks, and any reusable paper towels. I fold them all up together and put them in a drawer or on my work table till next time. No need to waste the wax paper. It's good for several uses. Oh, and you can write that off, too.<br />
<br />
So, see, it isn't that complicated. All you need is:<br />
2 feet of counter space<br />
Glass jars with a good seal <br />
1 or 2 old towels<br />
Paper towels<br />
Wax paper<br />
Bracelet holder of some sort<br />
Rubber or latex gloves<br />
1 or 2 handmade wire hooks<br />
Gun blue, LOS, and sealer<br />
An understanding husband, partner, or roommate (this one is essential!!)<br />
<br />
Have fun and Stay Wired Up!!<br />
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-79246263628003373572014-07-18T09:51:00.002-04:002014-07-18T09:51:49.034-04:00Disillusioned<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I have been so busy with things going on in my life I haven't had time to write. But now...I really feel I need to take the time. This won't be my usual blog, informative, instructional, etc., but instead I am going to rant...just a little, and I hope you will bear with me.<br />
<br />
Disillusionment you say? Yep. My disillusionment comes from what is going on with people in my social world, or actually with peeps in general. Let me expound. I will do this in generalities, but you will get the gist.<br />
<br />
For the most part, we all work really hard to get along on social media, as it is not only a place to connect, but a good way to market what we do. We tolerate a little bit of emotional fluctuation from our friends and the little outbursts that come with day to day life situations, because we "are" their friends. We do our best to soothe those of us that aren't feeling well or have had tragedy in their lives. We like to join in the fun and the jokes others present to us, and we respond to each others art positively and constructively. Well...most of us do most of the time.<br />
<br />
What I see happening over and over, and not in huge numbers but enough to disturb me, is the attacks that come from inside our group, one against another. Having been a student of psychology, both animal and human, I understand the "whys" of what makes it happens. What I don't understand is just this:<br />
<br />
For the life of me, I don't understand what makes people think they have the right to attack or make fun of someone, regardless of who they are or what they are doing. Perfection is illusive to "all" of us, not just some of us. Most of us have become who we are through things that have happened in our lives in our past and/or is genetically driven. Most of that is what makes us good, great, or superior artists. Some of it makes us good business people. Some makes us sensitive and vulnerable. Some of it makes some of us feel entitled and angry, or feel inferior to others.<br />
<br />
Some of us use flowery expressive speech, while some of us are strictly Type A and demand the short version of the truth. Some of us are recovering Type A and have learned to love flowery speech, never intending to harm another. So what is the truth? Let's do a short examination of the truth.<br />
<br />
<b>Truth</b> is most often used to mean being in accord with fact or reality. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truth#cite_note-Merriam-Webster-def-1"><span></span></a>The truth is the truth, regardless of how you say it, whether you color it up with adjectives and adverbs or not. It is still the truth if it represents fact or reality...as we see it or know it. But as long as a person isn't purposely misleading someone for whatever personal reason, what's the point in attacking that person. The last time I looked, it was still a free country, and we still have the power of free speech. Otherwise, I wouldn't be able to put this to paper, or internet, or blog, or whatever.<br />
<br />
Another thing that has brought me to tears recently (and yeah, I'm talkin' real tears here!) is that there are those that join in someone's tirade against one of their (our) own, for whatever reason they use to justify their nonconstructive criticism . And...here's a big one...have you, as a human begin, ever tried to get into another person's skin before you've criticized them? Have you asked pertinent questions to get to know the person you have an issue with? or do you just go off?<br />
<br />
Everyone does what the do a certain way for a reason, and before you attack perhaps you should get to know that person better, ask some questions, get to know them to find out what makes them tick, what makes them do the things they do. Maybe they just need approval, maybe they don't feel well, maybe they have issues at home, or maybe they struggle with being financially stable.<br />
<br />
Whatever this person has done to irritate you, you have an ethical and moral responsibility to resolve the issue one on one first. I challenge you to be better at this. I challenge you! When something happens that irritates you, sit back, take a deep breath, and ask yourself, "Does this person need me in some way? What makes them who they are? What makes them tick? What made they do this thing that rubbed me the wrong way?" If you can't or won't do that, then I challenge to look at your own morality and ethics.<br />
<br />
Hey, I've been guilty of it, too. But I try to work hard not to get caught up in this destructive behavior anymore. Do I still get caught up? Yes, if I'm not careful I do, and I hate myself later for it and I try to make it right with those I stupidly wronged. Does that make me think I'm perfect. Heck no!!! But it does put me on a path of less malignant behavior and on a path of more positive, nurturing behavior.<br />
<br />
If I could have one thing in this world, it would be for people to foresee how their words or actions can hurt or even emotionally destroy another human being. As artists, most of us are pretty sensitive, so this isn't hard to do. Social media has been a breeding ground that allows negative behavior to spill out all over the place, and it is happening more and more all the time.<br />
<br />
People used to have to confront another person face to face if there was an issue. What do you want to bet that confrontations didn't happen very often? Now, with email and social media, those that would spread their venom have a quick and painless (for them) way to spread their negativity all over the place, and they thrive on it, like a dog is attracted to its own vomit. Sorry, that was pretty harsh, but true.<br />
<br />
Again, I challenge you all! Before you "like" or comment on something negative, stop yourself and think about what your are doing, and what it might do to another person, one of your "friends," one of your peers. Have you done all you can do to understand who that person is? Have you truly made an effort to get to know that person? or have you chosen a bitter and self-destructive lifestyle that can and will come back to haunt you?<br />
<br />
There is an old saying that goes like this: What goes around, comes around. And I can tell you from personal experience...it's true.<br />
<br />
I would say my usual Stay Wired Up, but I think that would be disrespectful after all this. Thanks for letting me speak. Comments are welcome, but if they are completely caustic or mention names, they will be deleted. You have the right to right them, but I have the right to get rid of them. Thanks guys!</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-62700698610475903982014-05-10T15:23:00.000-04:002014-05-10T15:23:29.771-04:00What the Heck is a Soumak Weave?There have had a lot of questions about the Soumak weave, and the variations of it that I use when weaving wire. So, I've decided there is no time like the present to cover this subject.<br />
<br />
I discovered the Soumak weave in a tutorial on YouTube when I was first researching different types of weaves I could do with wire. I have to credit <span style="color: blue;">Beadaholique</span> here, and this is a link to that tutorial: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uoGp6yF5q4">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uoGp6yF5q4</a> .<br />
<br />
I watched this video about 20 times, or until I came up with a variation I could live with that would work with wire. Don't get me wrong here. I probably didn't come up with anything that original, but having not been formally trained in wire weaving, this technique was new to me and I adopted it. I still use it to this day.<br />
<br />
The Soumak weave goes back centuries, some rug experts say as early as 2000 BC. It was used in linen, as well as wool weaving. It has been used to some extent in weaving of all sorts to this day. Here is a diagram I found on the web that pretty well describes the Soumak and how it is achieved.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7KMtsV5ZCQ0/U25nZg6Z-nI/AAAAAAAAAqk/ElLJyQ73Vak/s1600/soumak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7KMtsV5ZCQ0/U25nZg6Z-nI/AAAAAAAAAqk/ElLJyQ73Vak/s1600/soumak.jpg" height="200" width="187" /></a></div>
Diagram credit: Barbara M. Berk<br />
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">www.BarbaraBerkDesigns.com</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> </span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">As you can see, it is what I call and up and down weave. Let me describe it in "wire-ease" to make it easier to understand for the wire weaver, and I will include some photos for all you visual folks. I am going to assume that you already know how to do some basic wire weaving, so if you have questions I don't address here, feel free to message me.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> Using the above diagram, you are going to go two wires up and loop, go two wires more and loop, go two wires more and loop until you are up to the top wire. You will make another single loop on the top wire, cross over the second wire down, and go two wires down and loop, two wires down and loop, continuing to the bottom. Just follow the diagram above and you will have a true Soumak.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">The variation I use the most is shown in my series of photos here. This is the weave you have all asked to see done. I begin the same way as the diagram above.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nE8UO-Xmqls/U250rno9E4I/AAAAAAAAAsE/3UgoKsSWR_Q/s1600/Step2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nE8UO-Xmqls/U250rno9E4I/AAAAAAAAAsE/3UgoKsSWR_Q/s1600/Step2.jpg" height="146" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">I start out by making three rounds (Step 1) around the bottom wire. (I am using 18 gauge frame wires and weaving with 26 gauge.) Step 2: Take your weave wire up and around the second wire. Pull your wire between the first and second frame wire towards you, as seen here. Go up and around the second and third frame wire.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uAhHYfTtecM/U250r3wO9CI/AAAAAAAAAro/mYKGViaMkIA/s1600/Step3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uAhHYfTtecM/U250r3wO9CI/AAAAAAAAAro/mYKGViaMkIA/s1600/Step3.jpg" height="176" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">In Step 3, you continue the weave by bringing the wire towards you between the second and third frame wire. Take the weave wire over and around frame wire 3 and 4. Then toward you between wire 3 and 4.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jNsK20kWgPw/U250r8UVe2I/AAAAAAAAArY/JobTSm_8DRo/s1600/Step4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jNsK20kWgPw/U250r8UVe2I/AAAAAAAAArY/JobTSm_8DRo/s1600/Step4.jpg" height="161" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> Repeat the pattern for the fourth and fifth frame wire. Your first "up" round should look like the Step 4 picture.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2BtuDuwouaY/U250tcp62qI/AAAAAAAAArk/PMni-gojPvg/s1600/Step5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2BtuDuwouaY/U250tcp62qI/AAAAAAAAArk/PMni-gojPvg/s1600/Step5.jpg" height="154" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">In this step, you will bring the wire towards you around wire 5 and between wire 4 and 5 and up and around wire 5 again. Just like in this photo.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJWmC96LwqQ/U250tUJ_vyI/AAAAAAAAArs/gnCXqFJavvk/s1600/Step6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJWmC96LwqQ/U250tUJ_vyI/AAAAAAAAArs/gnCXqFJavvk/s1600/Step6.jpg" height="170" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">At this point, you are going to reverse your thinking, and take the weave wire down two wire in the back of the frame wire, and bring it between wire 4 and and 3 towards you.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zsYk385gNBI/U250t7aaHOI/AAAAAAAAAr4/I4xgY3OiKwc/s1600/Step7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zsYk385gNBI/U250t7aaHOI/AAAAAAAAAr4/I4xgY3OiKwc/s1600/Step7.jpg" height="168" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Take the weave wire around the fourth wire, as seen here. You will continue this pattern until you get to the bottom wire again.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m0AGmOhuXb8/U250vRoEuXI/AAAAAAAAAsQ/16KvhujOa8E/s1600/Step8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m0AGmOhuXb8/U250vRoEuXI/AAAAAAAAAsQ/16KvhujOa8E/s1600/Step8.jpg" height="157" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">You have just completed one full round of two-up and two-down. I hope this makes sense. And you will probably recognize the weave if you've been working with wire for any length of time. A lot of wire workers use this same weave. We just all call it something different.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZupvBiico94/U250uKypF6I/AAAAAAAAAsA/zZBLjHGYMTY/s1600/Step9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZupvBiico94/U250uKypF6I/AAAAAAAAAsA/zZBLjHGYMTY/s1600/Step9.jpg" height="158" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">You can now repeat the pattern as much as you want, making sure to push your stitches together tightly as you work.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P9wQj-nzQyc/U250q8B6f7I/AAAAAAAAArE/P4F2GdDOQRo/s1600/Step10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P9wQj-nzQyc/U250q8B6f7I/AAAAAAAAArE/P4F2GdDOQRo/s1600/Step10.jpg" height="180" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Here is what round 2 going up the frame should look like.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--W_aNRmCUHI/U250q6I7W0I/AAAAAAAAAr8/PFWzLkbknnI/s1600/Step11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--W_aNRmCUHI/U250q6I7W0I/AAAAAAAAAr8/PFWzLkbknnI/s1600/Step11.jpg" height="153" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1ZSZPudDTJE/U257OVqfKwI/AAAAAAAAAsg/TmWpXA37GO0/s1600/ACWireHelCuffLgOvalLab03152014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1ZSZPudDTJE/U257OVqfKwI/AAAAAAAAAsg/TmWpXA37GO0/s1600/ACWireHelCuffLgOvalLab03152014.jpg" height="168" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Here, I have done three rounds and pushed the stitches together. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">This is the weave I use to make a lot of my bracelets.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--xI5UUqm2-w/U250rWzFKzI/AAAAAAAAArQ/THJBoZZ78IY/s1600/Step12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--xI5UUqm2-w/U250rWzFKzI/AAAAAAAAArQ/THJBoZZ78IY/s1600/Step12.jpg" height="200" width="198" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">The absolutely cool thing about this weave is that is is the same on the back as it is on the front. This is a pic of the back. Neat, huh? The idea...not my weaving...lol!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Oh, and that is my ring vice holding the wires. That is my favorite tool in the whole world, when I am weaving. I wedge that little bugger in between my left elbow and my side and have both my left hand and right hand free to separate wires and keep my weaving flowing and smooth.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">That's about all I have to say about that for now. I hope this was informative and gives you an idea of how to do this particular variation of the Soumak Weave. If you have any questions or comments, be sure to let me know, and I will do my best to answer them in a timely manner.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Hugs to you all, and remember to Stay Wired Up!!!</span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-5247292867881392492014-04-07T12:56:00.001-04:002014-04-16T14:13:53.538-04:00Jewelry Expanders...A Lifesaver for My BusinessGee folks, I am so sorry to be gone so long. Season here in Florida was super busy for me, and I was a real slacker when it came to taking care of my blog. But...I am back and with a vengeance.<br />
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Have you ever had someone try on a bracelet or necklace, only to complain that it is too small or too short? That has been a constant issue for me, since I make my own chain and bracelets, well, you know how it goes. They are either too small or too large. If you weave and try to make lots of different sizes, you will often be left with some that won't sell due to size. At least that is how it goes for me. So...I came up with a really cool solution that I am going to share with you now.<br />
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It's extenders. I have been making them for a while now. Some I sell separately, so the peeps can add them to my jewelry or to other pieces they may have at home. Some extenders are right on the jewelry I market.<br />
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First of all, I purchase 8 to 10mm closed jump rings in sterling silver and copper. Yes, I purchase these from UnkamenSupplies on Etsy, actually. If you remember, my husband isn't quite sure about me having a torch. I told him, "Shoot. I can only burn the house done once." But he didn't think that was too funny. He did reluctantly agree that I could get one, but I just don't have the time to deal with learning how to use it right now, so currently I do buy these (Sorry to all of you purists out there...) I am trying to get there. Fire scares the @#8& out of me, too!<br />
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I'm sure you can request closed jump rings in other metals, as well. Ralph, owner at UnkamenSupplies, is pretty accommodating and does custom work, too. Anyway, here is how I do it and some pics to give you visual designers a bird's eye view.<br />
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This is an expander that has been permanently attached to the bracelet clasp using 6mm open jump rings x 2 (for added strength) and 8mm closed jump rings. This usually gives me 1/2 to one full size expansion on a bracelet. Cool, huh?<br />
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These expanders were created to add to a bracelet or necklace a customer wants but needs or wants a larger size. They are created using a figure-8 link and 8mm closed jump rings. The 8mm closed jump rings I use are made of 23 gauge sterling silver. Sounds like a small gauge to use for this project, but I have never had an issue with them losing their shape with normal handling or wear. And they give the extenders a finer more elegant look.<br />
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First of all, I get out my needle nose pliers that has the smallest noses on them. I mark the noses at about 1/8 of an inch from the edge using a Sharpie. Don't worry, it does rub off. You will see that the more you use them. Set them aside for right now.<br />
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I like my figure-8 chain pieces as small as I can get them, so I cut my 20 gauge dead soft wire pieces just a little over 5/8 of an inch long. Don't worry. If you have never made figure-8s before, start out with 3/4 inch of wire or a little more. Once you have them cut, trim the ends so they are flush on both ends. Trim as little as you can to get a flush end. The more you practice this technique, the smaller you will be able to make your links. My links are 1/4 inch long when they are finished, and here is an example. Trust me, they didn't used to be that little!<br />
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You want to position the end of your cut wire piece into the needle nose pliers right on the ink mark, about 1/8 inch in from the end of the noses. Keep a moderately firm grip on your wire. Don't use a death grip or you will dent the wire every time, and some of those dents are hard to get rid of, even in a tumbler.<br />
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You are going to hold the end of the wire that isn't in the pliers and with that great grip of yours, twist the pliers toward you slowly. If you do this slow enough, you will be able to tell when your wire's flush end comes down on itself. You can now take the half done figure-8 link off your pliers.<br />
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You can see here that I didn't quite get my wire to where it touches itself. I can either correct this now or when I finish the link. Your choice, but you will want to do that eventually or your link will not be smooth and could possibly catch on clothing or worse yet, someone's hair or skin. Ouch!<br />
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Place the straight end of your figure-8 wire back into the needle nose pliers, remembering you are going to bend the wire in the opposite direction that you bent it before. I stress this only because you have no idea how many times I bent both sides the same way, only to then have a piece that was not exactly what I hoped for...<br />
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I grab the end of the wire or use my other hand's index finger to help bend back the wire and stabalize it to get a more accurate bend. Yep, you will get sore fingers. I can do about 100 links before I have to move onto something else. If you like, instead of using your index finger, hold the finished end with your flat or chain nose pliers. If you use this technique, a firm grip is needed. The wire may slip otherwise and leave you with a damaged link.<br />
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Remember to bend around the needle nose pliers so you get a uniform bend.<br />
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You are going to keep bending until your link looks something like this.<br />
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Now that you have your connector link done (the figure-8 link), you will be using your flat nose pliers and your chain link pliers to properly bend the figure-8 link out, so you can add your closed jump ring. With the upper part of the figure-8 link held firmly in your flat nose pliers, grasp the upper part of the lower loop of the link with your chain nose pliers and twist the loop toward you. <br />
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Make sure you have a firm grip on the chain nose pliers, as well. If the
pliers slip off the wire, it can mar the wire enough that it will
render the link unusable. Trust me, I've done this. <br />
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Slip the closed jump ring on the figure-8 link. Carefully close the figure-8 link with your needle nose pliers. Sometimes I put the entire link in my flat nose pliers to give my figure-8 link a nice flat shape. Make sure your looks are closed. Add another closed jump ring to the other end of the figure-8 link and continue the same pattern until you have your desired extender. Add a claw clasp to one end or the clasp of your choice. And...you are done!! Yippee!<br />
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I hope this has been informative for you, no matter your skill level. I do have to apologize for some of the pics. I was taking pictures myself, using my own hands, and snapping my shutter with my chin. Yep, it was a sight to see.<br />
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Anyway, love you guys! As always...Stay Wired Up!!!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-79525172653716808932014-01-26T13:41:00.003-05:002014-01-26T13:41:57.446-05:00Practicing Your Wire Work with Craft Wire versus Copper WireIn a past issue I wrote about <a href="http://wirerapper.blogspot.com/2013_03_01_archive.html" target="_blank">Craft Wire</a>, what it is, and briefly how it is made. Today I want to expand on the subject just a little and give you some information that might help you make the decision pertaining to whether or not you want to practice your wire wrapping or weaving with craft wire or natural copper wire.<br />
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The first thing to consider is what you are going to practice on. Does your wire need to be soft, like to wrap a ring around a ring mandrel? Or are you making a bracelet that needs to hold its shape when it's done? The reason for this thought process is the consideration of the softness of the wire you want to practice with. Normally, and I am providing this info on my experiences, craft wire is very, very soft. But then that depends on the "brand" of craft wire you are working with. There is always that "but." Ugh...<br />
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Personally, I have purchased some craft wires that were abnormally hard, as far as craft wire goes, and that is the Artistic brand. Artistic wire is a little more pricy but I like working with it when it's called for, because it is less likely to distort as I am forming it. That being said, I am not promoting their craft wire product over another. It is just one that I like for that reason for certain processes. The point being made here is that you need to know what you are going to practice doing.<br />
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Remember from my other article that craft wire is usually coated (enameled) or bonded with a very thin layer of another metal, like silver or gold. These layers are so thin, they can easily be "worked" or "worn" off, even if they are coated with a clear coat. If you are going to practice and want to use a craft wire, use the copper variety. The only two problems you might run into is cost and pliability for your project.<br />
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I know. It sounds like I'm running in circles here. And I do need to stick to the topic: copper vs. <br />
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copper craft wire.<br />
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Let's look at hardness first. Copper wire is manufactured in rods, most normally in gauge 2, or 5/16 of an inch in size. The rods are then pulled through a series of synthetic diamond dies that reduce the rod in size or gauge. Manufacturers use coolants and synthetic lubricants to keep the copper from overheating and/or to reduce friction as the rod is pulled through.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UDtngAxo424/UuVVqT3F0AI/AAAAAAAAAjk/7LWECxdDb-U/s1600/Copper_Wire_Drawing_Machine_Manufacturer_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UDtngAxo424/UuVVqT3F0AI/AAAAAAAAAjk/7LWECxdDb-U/s1600/Copper_Wire_Drawing_Machine_Manufacturer_.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>You've probably heard or read this story of gauging wire before, but I am going to get to a point here. As the rod is pulled through this series of dies, it is constantly getting harder and more brittle. If you've already worked with copper wire, you know that the more you work with it, the more brittle it gets, brittle to the point it can break. Once you pull rods down through the dies to get to 26 or 28 gauge wire, it is extremely brittle, so it is annealed to soften it back up. For the manufacturer, annealing means running an electrical current through it until it reaches a certain temperature. Then it is immediately cooled.<br />
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Why am I telling you this?? Well, the process of adding another metal to coat a copper craft wire is electroplating. Electroplating consists of electrically bonding of one surface to another, but I am not going to go into that entire process. You can look that one up on your own. Do it! It will be good for you!<br />
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Anyway, if annealing (adding electrical current to the wire in the manufacturing process) is softening the copper wire, and electroplating is adding electrical current to the copper core, doesn't it make sense that copper core craft wire will be slightly softer than its natural copper counterpart because electrical current has passed through it just one more time? I'm using deductive reasoning here, so if there is a metallurgy expert out there that can refute this, please...email me or comment! I really would like to know.<br />
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That is the long form of telling you this: If you are going to use natural copper, sterling (a whole 'nother subject!), or gold wire to weave or wrap a project for sale or personal use, you have to decide what might be better to practice with: craft wire or natural copper wire. I won't be there to help you. You have to decide for yourself. I'm just trying, in a very clumsy way, to give you more information to help you with that decision.<br />
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Whew! That was almost painful. Now to the second comparison of copper vs. copper core: COST! And don't most of us have to worry just a little about how much money we spend on our hobby or business? Let's do some calculating.<br />
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Craft wire can cost anywhere from $.01 to $.05 a foot. Look at the cost of your spool and divide it by the number of feet in you spool. That will give you the cost per foot of whatever wire you are considering for practice. Don't forget to add in the cost of your wire acquisition. Are you driving to the location to purchase? Figure in the cost of your gas. If you are ordering your wire online, you will most likely have to pay shipping and/or handling. That needs to be added in, as well, before you divide your cost by the number of feet you have.<br />
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Have I made you want to get out of making jewelry yet? Gee, I hope not! But...you need to consider these two things in your decision of what to use to learn or practice your craft. The one thing I won't do is make that decision for you. Personally, I still use craft wire for some projects, and copper wire I buy by the one pound spool for other projects. But when "I" practice a new technique, I use natural copper wire. Look at it this way, if my practice project works out, I can antique it, seal it and wear it myself, Yippe!!<br />
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Have fun, everyone! And Stay Wired Up!!!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-64234372949414671792013-12-28T18:03:00.002-05:002013-12-28T19:53:05.622-05:00Just Another Artist Pulling Out of EtsyI have been reading a lot lately about what Etsy (a seller's marketplace that supposedly allows only handmade items) is doing to the "handmade" market. I have to say that I do still have my Etsy shop up and running, and even though I have never sold a thing there, have kept it strictly for marketing purposes. Now...I am reconsidering that decision.<br />
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For those of you that don't know about Etsy, it is a marketplace that was started to feature handmade items from all over the world. At this point in time, there are probably over 30M items for sale, with the Jewelry category being one of the largest on the site. Since its inception, Etsy has gone from "handmade" only to three sections: Handmade (or I made it), Another From My Shop (made the item), or Another Company or Person (made the item).<br />
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When you look at those three sections, the first two are pretty much self explanatory. The third, however, is ambiguous. Another company or person leaves a lot to the imagination. Etsy does ask that if you design something and have a manufacturer make it for you, that you fill out their form with specific questions as to how much this company had to do with the design itself or the making of your product.<br />
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That is a big "whatever" from me. Okay, honest people are going to go through the process in hopes that Etsy reviews their form and puts their stamp of approval on their selling their product(s) on the Etsy forum. Seriously, do you really think that everyone is going to do that? Or do you think they will stretch that request all out of shape to fit whatever they want it to mean and do it without telling Etsy?<br />
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If you think most people would go through with that "process" I have had my laugh for the day at your expense...sorry, kids. When money is more important to someone than coming clean, usually the money will win. Makes me sigh...a really big sigh. But I feel that is the truth. So sad...<br />
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To add insult to injury, Etsy's third section of "Another Company or Person (made my product), pretty much says it all, right? That leaves it wide open to market just about anything from anyone or anywhere. They do have a list of things you can't market, like porn, drugs, alcohol, and other illegal substances like ivory. What I found amusing was that the list of prohibited items was actually longer than the area that defined "handmade."<br />
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Personally, there is a lot of discrepancy when it comes to how we define the word "handmade." What it means to me might not be what it means to you. For me, it means making everything included in the designs I make, down to the jump rings and clasps. Wait a minute! Don't get mad at me just yet!<br />
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That doesn't mean that if you string beads to make your jewelry, that isn't handmade. Sure it is. You are using your understanding of color and aesthetics to design your piece, just like I do. It's a personal thing for me, just like it is for you. Still love me???<br />
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Where I draw the line is where most of you do. When someone in the booth right next to you is selling necklaces from China for $12, while your handmade ones are marked $35, it can be pretty discouraging. Trust me, I've been there, and it ain't much fun!!! <br />
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I am a little off track here, but let me elaborate a little. My motto has always been "Live and Learn." Everything we go through in everyday has a purpose, and most of it is to teach us something we need to know. Hey, I'm included in that. I learned not to do as many craft shows (if at all) because they were usually a bust for me...as I am the one that got stuck next to the "Made in China" jewelry booth. Customers all oooo'd and ahhhhh'd over my stuff and then went to her booth and bought. And she had the nerve to look at me and wink...ugh.<br />
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Craft shows are less expensive to do. I understand that. However, I would rather do one or two good shows a year (maybe juried shows) than ten less expensive shows, where I could be totally shut out in sales. So, I save my money until a good one pops up. Sometimes you have to plan ahead, as these shows fill up fast, but it is worth it.<br />
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Back to Etsy...I will probably get kicked out if they get wind of this anyway, so I may as well shut that puppy down now. I have to stand up for what I believe in and that is handmade should be handmade and not titled "handmade" because someone somewhere made it!<br />
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Well, I'm done ranting for now. I would like to finish with this: Don't let your anger wear you down. Anger is not only a sin, it is bad for your health, both mental and physical. Be determined to be better than those other guys. Walk with your head up and be proud of what you do. If you aren't selling enough, research and consider other selling arenas, like galleries and retail shops. YOU CAN DO IT.<br />
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Anyway, I'm pulling MY Etsy store before they catch me! Have a great day...and Stay Wired Up!!!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-67833380723488664142013-11-29T12:05:00.001-05:002013-11-29T12:38:38.915-05:00It's the Holidays! Why Not Have a Sale!?!That is just what I am doing! When you weave wire like I do, or make molded silver jewelry, or bead, or cut cabochons, or do anything related to jewelry, you know that your time is money, and it takes money to fund your "time" doing what you love.<br />
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Okay...that was a mouthful, huh? But the reality is just this: We all have a certain amount of time to work, play, and shop, earn money, and spend money. Research has shown that this year is supposed to be a banner year for online shoppers.<br />
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Did you know that 45% of online shoppers have bought something they would not have bought in person? Did you also know that 96% of people are more apt to buy on a site that offers free shipping? (http://visual.ly/online-shopping-trends-2013-14)<br />
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Those statistics are huge if you, like myself, are doing the majority of your sales online. Of course, you may have a website and do most of your sales elsewhere. Wouldn't you like to increase your sales online to add to your bottom line?<br />
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Let's look at some reasons customers are turning to online shopping: The cost of gas. Parking at the mall. Fighting the crowds, especially with children. Finding the right gift in the time you have to shop. And that is just a few reasons people are turning to online shopping. Do you know that 73% of shoppers do at least 1/2 of their shopping online? That's huge!<br />
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Here are some more stats to digest. There is a shopping cart (at the store) abandonment rate of 65%!!! The average order for an online buy is over $118!! 79% of people would rather get free shipping than a discount. 62% rarely return items bought online!<br />
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Well, that's enough statistics. If you have a website, ramp it up and email your customers and post it all over your social media site. It's time to get serious about sales. So...I will start by having my own... <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iNXbHPBmNrA/UpjPCjfhnqI/AAAAAAAAAZc/Rub7ukRT2YI/s1600/SSWovWireMorrocoFossil11022013b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="153" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iNXbHPBmNrA/UpjPCjfhnqI/AAAAAAAAAZc/Rub7ukRT2YI/s200/SSWovWireMorrocoFossil11022013b.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="color: red;"><u><b>SUPER SALE</b></u></span></h2>
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<a href="https://ggchambers.com/" target="_blank">at ggChambers designs</a></h2>
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I have lowered prices by <u>20% or more</u> on most items, and I'm adding sale items every day just for your Holiday Shopping!</h4>
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<u>Free Shipping</u>, too, that used to be contingent on a sale of $50 or more. But I am lowering that today to $0 required. That means everyone will get free shipping no matter what you order!</h4>
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No restocking fees if you return an item. (Does not apply to custom orders) </h4>
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New Shopping category: <a href="https://ggchambers.com/product-category/jewelry-sets/" target="_blank">Jewelry Sets</a> </h4>
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So what are you waiting for???</h2>
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<a href="https://ggchambers.com/" target="_blank">ggChambers designs</a></h2>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-32488988733882049112013-11-16T11:23:00.000-05:002013-11-16T11:23:40.540-05:00Some Time Later, The Copper Test, and Life HappensWell, I promised an edition yesterday, and like the title says..."Life Happens" and so it did. You are getting the latest and greatest today instead.<br />
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I was walking around the porch Thursday and noticed I had left the copper testing coils outside. I thought you might be interested in some results to date on our sealers. I was.<br />
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This picture really doesn't do the results justice. The top row is your unpolished and Maas results from weeks ago. In real life they all have a nice "brown" patina. To some of you, this might be totally unacceptable. To others who might like browns, this might be just fine.<br />
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The bottom row is, of course, the coils with one coat of ProtectaClear, again ranking the shiniest and most untouched by weather. Bottom row on the right is the Ren Wax, which actually fared a little better than those on the top. This was a pleasant surprise to me, as it has been warm and humid down here in lower Florida. No, that wasn't a dig to those of you that live in the snow belt. Just the facts, Ma'am, just the facts.<br />
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Undoubtedly some of you may have already purchased or used some of these products yourself. What you probably found was that the Maas really does shine up nice. The Ren Wax may have dulled a little, but with another coat, polishes up just fine. The ProtectaClear is still going strong, but has made your item a little "stiff."<br />
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The makeup of this product will make your woven wire and wire wrapped items more firm, for lack of a better word. I know it does my woven wire bracelets. Without the sealer, some thinner banded items had a certain amount of flexibility as you tried to twist it back and forth. The addition of the ProtectaClear eliminates some of that play. For me, this is a good thing and doesn't bother me.<br />
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If, however, you apply it to chain or dangle earrings, you will have to work them a little to loosen them up again. And this is only after the item has had enough time to cure. Check the <a href="http://everbritecoatings.com/" target="_blank">Everbrite</a> website for more information on that.<br />
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Again, I am not necessarily promoting this product or being abnormally contradictive about the other products. But I want you to have good and thorough information as you use these products for the first time. At least you might know a little about what to expect when you do your own applications.<br />
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I hope you all have a really great weekend. I'll be writing more soon. In the meantime, remember to Stay Wired Up!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-41274997026320449572013-10-28T15:17:00.002-04:002013-10-28T15:17:30.415-04:00Copper Test Results Are InIf you remember from last time I wrote, we were testing different finishes on six little copper coils. Sorry for the wait, but I wanted to give each finish ample time to tell their individual stories. Here is what I found:<br />
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It has been about two weeks since I added different polishes to my raw copper coils. They sat in a wax paper coated pie pan in the shade on my porch. I live in Florida and we have had some really great humid days. With humidity and heat being a major factor to tarnish development, I thought this would provide me with the information I have been seeking. I work with a lot of copper, myself, and want to provide my customers with the best options for tarnish resistance.<br />
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Here are the final pics: First, here is the picture of the coil that was unfinished the entire time:<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-08veqWw7CBY/Um6tgrP0vzI/AAAAAAAAAUo/LWKzBmApjiM/s1600/Unpolished1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-08veqWw7CBY/Um6tgrP0vzI/AAAAAAAAAUo/LWKzBmApjiM/s320/Unpolished1.jpg" width="320" /></a>As you can see, there are many dark spots and it has lost its shine.<br />
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The next picture is of the coil finished with Renaissance Wax or Ren Wax, for short. I was sorely disappointed in the results here. To be honest, I finished a new Pendant and chain I recently made with the Ren Wax and wore it outside all day Saturday. While my neck did not turn green, the pendant turned color and lost the nice sheen I had given it with gun blue and lots of waxing. The results, overall, aren't as bad as the unpolished coil has, but I was still disappointed with the results. I have to say, however, that I only put on one layer of wax. I know some users put on multiple layers of this particular wax.<br />
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Next, you can see the results from the use of the Mass Commercial Paste. When I first put this on the coil I was amazed at the shine I got! I was immediately in love with the product. I had really high hopes but it, too, developed some areas of tarnish, about like the Ren Wax. Remember, however, when I finished each coil, I did only the top surface and did not try to get the finishes down into the grooves or onto the back.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--pcrXQIrko8/Um6tewoBXTI/AAAAAAAAAUM/B3oToD2rVm4/s1600/MaasCommercial1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--pcrXQIrko8/Um6tewoBXTI/AAAAAAAAAUM/B3oToD2rVm4/s320/MaasCommercial1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The Maas Liquid finish came out like the Maas Commercial Paste. This coil also had several areas of tarnish. Wah...now I was really disappointed...although I still love the product for cleaning and polishing. If you look closely, you can see the areas of tarnish I am talking about. These photos are not retouched. I want you to see the true results.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5Tjx2WbjGFA/Um6tfiJCkJI/AAAAAAAAAUk/y0BHhBzRVWQ/s1600/MaasLiquid1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="171" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5Tjx2WbjGFA/Um6tfiJCkJI/AAAAAAAAAUk/y0BHhBzRVWQ/s320/MaasLiquid1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Last but not least are the Everbrite ProtectaClear products. This test was not to sing the praises of ProtectaClear. Trust me. Like a lot of other artists, I have been somewhat afraid that using this type of hard, permanent finish could flake off later. Here is the pic of the spray product, and it is still shiny. I have to tell you, I tried to peel the product off the surface of the coil, and it was as if it had become part of the coils surface.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b1bqZOqYpDA/Um6tf2QNRII/AAAAAAAAAUg/GSStaxaXpIQ/s1600/ProtectaClearSpray1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="146" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b1bqZOqYpDA/Um6tf2QNRII/AAAAAAAAAUg/GSStaxaXpIQ/s320/ProtectaClearSpray1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Then there is the ProtectaClear brush on. I used the regular product that produces a shine, but they also make a satin finish product. The brush on won this contest, hands down. The coil was shiny, like the day I applied it. Notice the area where the tag is? You can see where I <i>didn't </i>put the product. That area tarnished. Hmmmm.<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ggs7lUU41XA/Um6tfvGGNkI/AAAAAAAAAUY/zNCrxoAS1T0/s1600/ProtectaClearBrushShine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ggs7lUU41XA/Um6tfvGGNkI/AAAAAAAAAUY/zNCrxoAS1T0/s320/ProtectaClearBrushShine.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
I also tried to peel this finish off with my finger nails and a serrated kitchen knife. I was able to mar the finish. After all, copper is a soft metal. But the finish did not peel. I was thinking it might peel off like bad nail polish. You know, like a plastic of some sort I would be able to get a hold of and peel off. No way! It stuck fast. I am told by the folks at Everbrite, that if the product is allowed to "cure" for a few days, it develops a really durable finish. <br />
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Here are some more interesting tidbits for your memory banks. Even though the Ren Wax Maas products still allowed the copper to tarnish, it easily cleans up when applied again. I also found that shining the coils without reapplication of Maas gave the coils a variety of colorful patinas. Unfortunately some of the tarnish remained, but the colors were fascinating!! The coils took on a kind of iridescence. I may have to play with that some more, as I love color, and fire (heating the copper to get color) isn't safe for me. I'm a little accident prone.<br />
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Another thing I found out quite by accident. I had a piece of jewelry that I used liver of sulfur on. I didn't tumble it or rub it out much and sealed it with PretectaClear. The copper turned really dark brown, even though it was sealed and in an anti-tarnish bag. I'm thinking that maybe the ProtectaClear somehow sealed in the effects of the LOS, even though I had given it a neutralizing bath in baking soda. Just food for thought. The effects have seemed to stop at dark brown, but I am keeping an eye on this particular piece for sure.<br />
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I am not trying to tell you to use or not use any of these products. They each have very different and endearing qualities. I wanted the information for myself and thought I would share my findings with you. If you have any questions or have found different results, please feel free to message me.<br />
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Until next time, keep on doing what you do...and Stay Wired Up!!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-47740121464360397112013-10-07T12:33:00.002-04:002013-10-07T12:33:55.912-04:00At Last, At Last...Copper Sealer TestAt long last I have begun that copper sealer test! Actually, I started it some time ago, but set the washers outside to "weather" in the Florida humidity just before we got a huge wind and rain storm. Needless to say, I didn't anchor the paper I put them on. Nor did I label them. I just labelled their position on the paper. Guess what...the paper got caught by the wind and the washers ended up on the floor. Okay, no one said I was a genius! Anyway...here we go.<br />
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I decided to test six pieces of 16 gauge copper wire that I coiled tightly, instead of using washers. Mainly because I work with tightly woven pieces of wire and wanted a little more accuracy of how each sealer worked when wires are closer together. Mind you, this is only a little home test, and the results are to satisfy only basic judgment of how each sealer works. So, if up on your own tests, you get different results, please do not hold me liable. I will plead the fifth!<br />
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This time I am testing Renaissance Wax, Maas Commercial Metal Polish Paste, Maas Liquid Metal Polish, Everbrite's ProtectaClear brush on coating, and Everbrite's ProtectaClear Spray. It's all I could handle at one time. Like I said, I used 16 gauge copper, dead soft, 99.9% pure, no coatings.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e8_GczWGQjQ/UlLYaVEzRvI/AAAAAAAAASc/P4UeumpCo8M/s1600/OriginalPieces.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e8_GczWGQjQ/UlLYaVEzRvI/AAAAAAAAASc/P4UeumpCo8M/s320/OriginalPieces.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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In the picture to the right, you can see the originals before I did anything to them. The only difference is that I removed the one on the top center. It was one that I was going to do with Maas Commercial using my Dremel. I already had one with Mass Commercial that I used a rag to apply. I figured it was too redundant, so pulled the top center from the test. I am testing only five and I left one in its original condition.<br />
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I only coated the spirals on one side and didn't coat the little hooks at the top, wore gloves like a good little girl, and did the test on wax paper. I've had real good luck with sealers not sticking to wax paper, and it protects the surface your working on quite efficiently. Trust me, I have spilled my sealers!<br />
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Here are a few things I noticed during the application process:<br />
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The Maas products, both the Liquid and the Commercial Paste, were the easiest to use and put quite the shine on the copper, brightening and polishing at the same time without much work at all. I used a non-impregnated polishing towel-like cloth you can get in any cleaning or auto department of your big-box stores.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jVsnQyZg4W4/UlLfLA5jh-I/AAAAAAAAASw/Zx3bV5XaqOA/s1600/MasLiq10072013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jVsnQyZg4W4/UlLfLA5jh-I/AAAAAAAAASw/Zx3bV5XaqOA/s200/MasLiq10072013.jpg" width="190" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6v2PBv9L15g/UlLfLPFSmzI/AAAAAAAAASs/lvVYUUgLACs/s1600/MaasCommPaste10072013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="145" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6v2PBv9L15g/UlLfLPFSmzI/AAAAAAAAASs/lvVYUUgLACs/s200/MaasCommPaste10072013.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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The Renaissance Wax, see below, went on easy, as well. I did use a Dremel and cloth wheel to apply. The Ren Wax had to sit for a while before I could shine it up. You don't use much and it is dull until polished up. I used the same type towel-like cloth to polish it about 10 minutes later.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IqkFKYtp5uo/UlLfZY7UGiI/AAAAAAAAAS8/n6eqW2oN0qg/s1600/RenWax1072013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="171" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IqkFKYtp5uo/UlLfZY7UGiI/AAAAAAAAAS8/n6eqW2oN0qg/s200/RenWax1072013.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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The coil used for the ProtectaClear Spray, on the left with the blurred label, had to be taken outside to spray. I sprayed one side only and the coil seemed to have a lot of little bubbles on it for a while. When I laid the coil down, the sealer leveled out and bubbles disappeared. It takes quite some time to dry and cure. If you do decide to use this product, you can't just spray and go. You have to allow at least a couple of days to complete the drying process, unless you put your sealed item in a 180 degree oven for a while to speed it up.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SWwlQNWpmwY/UlLfjLytgII/AAAAAAAAATE/lnOLCJboN-4/s1600/ProtectSpr10072013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="176" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SWwlQNWpmwY/UlLfjLytgII/AAAAAAAAATE/lnOLCJboN-4/s200/ProtectSpr10072013.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e8hZHi5QM50/UlLgBp2wc3I/AAAAAAAAATY/GHzpZKzPKz0/s1600/Protect10072013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="138" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e8hZHi5QM50/UlLgBp2wc3I/AAAAAAAAATY/GHzpZKzPKz0/s200/Protect10072013.jpg" width="200" /></a> With the ProtectaClear brush on, above right, I used a small artist's flat brush and brushed on a fair amount. Again, the same principles apply as with the ProtectaClear Spray. Use wax paper, for sure.<br />
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After coating, I placed the coils on another sheet of non-stick paper in a pie tin and placed them outside. In fact, I just did that and it is raining, so the humidity will go up and we should get some cool results I can tell you about in a couple of days. And yes, this time I anchored the pan with something heavy so it won't blow away. Live and learn, right?<br />
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One other thing I would like to caution you on when using any type of sealer: wear rubber or nitrile gloves and protective eye-wear and use your sealer in a well-ventilated area. These products are caustic in some cases and may cause injury or sickness if ingested or splashed on the skin. Basically, use some common sense. That's all I ask.<br />
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Okay, we are on our way. I will check in with you in a couple of days and let you know what's kicking with these coated coils. Have a good one...and Stay Wired Up!!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-70605009442931875392013-08-25T13:05:00.004-04:002013-08-25T13:05:48.783-04:00Back to Marketing that New Business of YoursStarting a new business can be very discouraging, especially if you are counting on a website to make money for you. I've been reading some comments of Facebook in the Storevnvy Forum page, and it makes me so sad to see so many business or website owners so unhappy with the sales they are making, or rather not making. And I totally understand.<br />
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I have had my Storenvy website for what seems like forever, not quite a year, anyway. I just checked and have had no sales, but I am not going to complain and not because I don't need the money! I'm not going to because I know that it takes time to build an Internet following. It takes time to get your name out there. It takes time for people to find you.<br />
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There are millions and millions of websites out there on the Web, and many are owned by people like you and me, people that are hoping to supplement their income or to start an income.<br />
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One of the most unfortunate things going on with relation to Internet businesses are those peeps that take advantage of those of us that are just trying to get our little businesses up and running. I can speak to this first hand, as I was contacted by an Internet marketing group who convinced me to spend well over $15,000 with them to get my business up and out there.<br />
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Six months elapsed, promises that were made had failed, and my retirement was gone. I wanted answers from this group and all I got was that is was somehow my fault. That I didn't stick to the program or put enough time in. Any of you that know me, know that when I start something, I am both feet in. That wasn't what happened at all. They took my money and turned their back on me.<br />
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Long story short, don't fall for the "marketing lines" from those anonymous callers, even if they have a legitimate business. Do the marketing yourself.<br />
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I've written a few articles on this before, but want to reiterate...YOU have to get your name out there. YOU have to advertise your own business is a way you can afford, whether it's spending $5 a month to boost a post on Facebook or investing in Google Analytics. YOU have to get out there on other social sites like Twitter, Instagram, Stumbleupon, Google+, to name just a few. There are tons out there. Join clubs and other types of groups online that relate to what you do.<br />
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My point is...DON'T give up. If you are sincere about what you do, don't give up! And unfortunately, you have to be patient, patient, patient. Nothing that's good comes without hard work and patience.<br />
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Remember, just because someone visits your site once, doesn't mean they are going to buy. If they like what you do, they will come back time and time again before they buy. Why?<br />
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First of all, they want to make sure you aren't a flash in the pan. That you will be there when they need you, if they need you for another item, exchange, or repair. Most people that shop the web are very web savvy anymore and will not take a chance on being taken advantage of or buying from someone that won't be in business in another month or two. Internet shoppers want good service.<br />
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Secondly, online shoppers have a ton of stuff to look at anymore. If you aren't marketing your business in some form or another, they aren't going to find you on the Internet, not with the millions of other sites out there that are competing with you for the same dollars. You have to market and you have to be patient.<br />
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I'm not writing this to hammer any you over the head. I don't want to make you throw your hands in the air and quit. What I really want to do is make you take a realistic view of your online business and do what it takes with determination. Open your mind. You are all smart people.<br />
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There are tons of free marketing articles out there for you to read and books, as well. You will have to weed through all the sites that want your money but check out the blog arena. Most people who blog do it because they genuinely want to help others. Get started now, and don't give up.<br />
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I'm only using Storenvy as an example because some of you were talking about Storenvy starting to charge a fee. If Storenvy starts to charge a fee for sales, that can be a good thing...especially if it goes to market your stores. You can keep an eye on them. It's your business, it's your prerogative. If after six to 12 months, you don't see them doing any advertising like they said, then try some more marketing of your own. And of course, their marketing efforts should not take the place of your marketing efforts! They are a new business, too. It can take at least a year to get any business going, if not two to three. That's where your patience comes in.<br />
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I have three websites and am on a myriad of social sites and have had this business for just a little over a year. My website sales are very slow, but I keep all my sites up and running because it keeps me in front of the public. It lets them know I am in it for the long run. I post on all the sites, Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter, and more, and if I can do and still make product, so can you!<br />
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Look at it this way...it's a great time to teach those kids and husband or wife how to help out with your chores while you are on the computer!<br />
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Enough for today...Get that business going! and Stay Wired Up! Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-25350225795459366492013-08-13T11:33:00.001-04:002013-08-13T11:33:34.378-04:00Back Online and Researching Those Illusive Copper SealersHey, everyone! Thank you so much for your patience! As some you know, I recently moved and the movers just brought the rest of our boxes (all 70 of them) last Friday. So...I have been frantically unpacking, but...I am back and working hard.<br />
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Just to let you know what's on the horizon, I'm going to be writing on copper, it's makeup, and why we have such a hard time keeping that dog gone tarnish at bay. I will also be discussing more sealers and showing you example of the different types and how they work.<br />
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If you remember from past posts, I reviewed Everbrite's ProtectaClear. Since my last post on that subject, I have accumulated more data you might find interesting, especially if you work with copper. Most of it will be pertinent to those of you that work with wire. The results may be a little different for those that work with flat metals and metals other than copper. Copper is my metal of choice to blog about now because it seems to be the one we can all afford to work with, and it seems to have different problems than silver or gold.<br />
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I will be reviewing Renaissance Wax, Maas Wax products, Carnuba Wax, and other car or boat waxes. Reviews will also be done on sealers like polyurethanes and other manufactured products. As I said, some results will vary if you are making your items from copper sheeting, but hopefully, if this is the case, you will still find the information helpful.<br />
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Please be assured, I am going to be learning as I am teaching, as well. The reviews I will be providing will, in no means, provide the perfect answers you might be looking for. My intent is to provide you with enough information that you can make an informed decision for yourself in relation to the products you are making and the products you will choose to finish or seal your items with.<br />
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There will, of course, always be other factors that will relate to the results I may find, like humidity level of your workspace, for example. In the picture you see two unfinished pieces, both made of the same wire, both made in an air conditioned area, kept in that same area, but made two days apart. Hence the reason I want to do the comparisons!<br />
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The one on the left was made two days ago. The other I worked on last night. The rate copper oxidizes can truly be frustrating, just like making sure it keeps its color once we give it patina. <br />
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So...stay tuned. There's more, and real soon! Take care...and Stay Wired UP!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-4724469385255747412013-07-07T13:29:00.000-04:002013-07-07T13:29:33.142-04:00Build Yourself a Take-Apart WorkbenchMost of you already know we are moving the wire jewelry business, <a href="https://ggchambers.com/" target="_blank">ggChambers designs</a>, out of Texas and down to Florida. It has been a busy past few weeks packing our personal belongings, selling furniture, and finding time for me to still practice my art.<br />
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I guess the key to doing all of this is organization. While that may be the key, you should see my soon to be ex-living room, because I haven't packed much of my business "stuff" yet. My husband and I are sitting on two of our patio chairs with the little patio table in between the chairs. You would think we would have tons of room to walk around, but the floor is littered with papers to be shredded, boxes of beads and findings, jewelry making tools, and photo props.<br />
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So, where does the organization come in? That's what today's blog is about, building your own <b>Take Apart Workbench.</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-uuJmt6hz_Ptq9y9RhFysm4SiFlJNBmoBibASKudyNdKRadG-0sF9hPsHwJUIo-hs9ZGQckBlZMM71UFNhVc3RvdsOO0wUA72JVpYKrUDAIRZPHW990jur3GWpyUsaPh6rUo7QzlGgo/s1600/TakeApartWorkbench07072013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="125" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-uuJmt6hz_Ptq9y9RhFysm4SiFlJNBmoBibASKudyNdKRadG-0sF9hPsHwJUIo-hs9ZGQckBlZMM71UFNhVc3RvdsOO0wUA72JVpYKrUDAIRZPHW990jur3GWpyUsaPh6rUo7QzlGgo/s200/TakeApartWorkbench07072013.jpg" width="200" /></a>My husband and I designed this simple but functional workbench. It is not only sturdy enough to hammer on, it comes apart and is easy to move around or take with you...if you move, travel in an RV, or just want to rearrange your work space. Read through all the directions first before assembly, and let me know if you have any questions. I apologize that the pics don't show me putting this together, because it was already made. I promise any jewelry tutorials will NOT be written this way!<br />
<br />
You will need:<br />
<ul>
<li>1 sheet ( 4 x8 foot) of Best Grade 3/4 inch thick plywood</li>
<li>21 feet of Best Grade 2 x 4's</li>
<li>28- 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 inch x 1/4" wood screws or dry wall screws</li>
<li>4 Stainless steel round Phillips head 1 1/4 inch long x 1/4" wide screws </li>
<li>A circular saw or good straight saw</li>
<li>Tape measure</li>
<li>Pencil or pen</li>
<li>Sand paper</li>
</ul>
Cut your plywood into three parts:<br />
<ul>
<li>2 pieces 48" x 24"</li>
<li>1 piece 18" x 29 3/4 "</li>
</ul>
Cut your 2 x 4's into 12 pieces:<br />
<ul>
<li>4 pieces 27" long</li>
<li>8 pieces 18" long</li>
</ul>
<ol><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Lcd-nK5gUpI/UdmdlnVxxEI/AAAAAAAAAPI/0w2Xwkz6dis/s1600/TakeApartWorkbench07072013d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Lcd-nK5gUpI/UdmdlnVxxEI/AAAAAAAAAPI/0w2Xwkz6dis/s200/TakeApartWorkbench07072013d.jpg" width="138" /></a>
<li>First you want to screw all the legs together.</li>
<li>For the first leg structure, take two 27" pieces and one 18" piece.</li>
<li>Place the 18" piece on top of one 27" pieces and screw together with the longer screws in three places down into the center of the 27" leg. Refer to pictures.</li>
<li>Do the same on the other side of the 18" piece.</li>
<li>Measure from the top of the leg structure down 19" and mark on both legs. This creates a cross member for stability and to hold the shelf</li>
<li>Center another 18" piece over the mark as seen in the picture, and screw together using the longer screws on each side with two screws each.</li>
<li>Follow the instructions above to make the other leg structure.</li>
</ol>
<u>For the top:</u><br />
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</div>
<ol><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DQh7fwu-Svk/UdmdHAA_tpI/AAAAAAAAAO4/zfBi_YEASsg/s1600/TakeApartWorkbench07072013c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="94" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DQh7fwu-Svk/UdmdHAA_tpI/AAAAAAAAAO4/zfBi_YEASsg/s200/TakeApartWorkbench07072013c.jpg" width="200" /></a>
<li>Sand all the edges of the cuts made from the plywood and round the corners.</li>
<li>We will attach the units that hold the legs in first. Measure in from each end of one 24 x 48" piece of plywood 4 inches and mark with straight lines.</li>
<li>You might need a helper for this step or super glue (a temporary solution till you screw it together) on 18" 2 x 4 piece in the center of your marks. (So the 2 x 4 will be 4 inches from the front, back, and side.)</li>
<li>Using your long screws, screw from the plywood top down into the 2 x 4 in at least 2 places. Screw down hard enough that the screw "sinks" into the plywood top.</li>
<li>Do the same thing on the other end of the plywood top.</li>
<li>Measure across the top of your legs at the width of the 18" leg top, because all 2 x 4's are not created equal and you want your legs to fit in tight to the leg holders on the plywood.</li>
<li>Mark that out and screw the another 18" leg holder like you did above, using the longer screws, making sure your leg is going to fit snugly but not sloppily. Refer to the pictures.</li>
<li>Place the legs into their holders and flip the table over. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g0OJm6S0GhI/UdmdHr3N5hI/AAAAAAAAAPE/XgekYXbT2lo/s1600/TakeApartWorkbench07072013e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="142" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g0OJm6S0GhI/UdmdHr3N5hI/AAAAAAAAAPE/XgekYXbT2lo/s200/TakeApartWorkbench07072013e.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
</li>
<li>Place the 18" x 29 3/4" shelve between the legs across the legs cross members. This will add stability while you add the second top.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tZ96wIhIMdc/UdmdHF940eI/AAAAAAAAAO8/oZOxmMfEYp8/s1600/TakeApartWorkbench07072013b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="151" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tZ96wIhIMdc/UdmdHF940eI/AAAAAAAAAO8/oZOxmMfEYp8/s200/TakeApartWorkbench07072013b.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<u>Finish the Top:</u> </div>
</li>
</ol>
<ol>
<li>Pick out the smoothest surface side of the remaining top board for the top of your table. You want a level firm surface to work on.</li>
<li>On the bottom of the top (lol) add some wood glue to help assure the tops will stay firmly together.</li>
<li>Using you stainless steel Phillips head screws, screw the tops together from the top on each corner, 2 inches from each corner.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9BIcNh0v73I/UdmhHo5lkyI/AAAAAAAAAPY/zcyFlxLSY0c/s1600/TakeApartWorkbench07072013f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="91" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9BIcNh0v73I/UdmhHo5lkyI/AAAAAAAAAPY/zcyFlxLSY0c/s200/TakeApartWorkbench07072013f.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
</li>
</ol>
<br />
And you are done!!! The top comes off, the legs come off, and the shelf comes out. You have four pieces to move whenever you need to. You can add a felt or other table cloth to keep your beads from rolling off.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-REloRfdUqfs/UdmhHxKry0I/AAAAAAAAAPc/kGHzKcU0tu0/s1600/TakeApartWorkbench07072013g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="130" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-REloRfdUqfs/UdmhHxKry0I/AAAAAAAAAPc/kGHzKcU0tu0/s200/TakeApartWorkbench07072013g.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
Dang, this was a long blog. I hope you didn't get bored and that you get lots of use out of it. Let me know what you think! And Stay Wired Up!!!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-34325203231498402522013-06-18T11:23:00.001-04:002013-06-18T11:23:39.125-04:00Battle of the Jewelry Sealers - Part Three - The Bead and the BraceletI'm sorry it takes me so long to write these days. Packing for the move is kicking my butt, and I try to pack half the day and work the other half. Hopefully, after we get where we are going, I can do this more often. At any rate, thanks so much for your patience!<br />
<br />
If you will remember, I started out with a water-based urethane coated polymer clay bead from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/Fanceethat" target="_blank">Fanceethat</a>. I re-coated it with the solvent-based coating, ProtectaClear. The only reason I did this was because ProtectaClear is one of the coatings I use to finish my wire projects, and had used it on many types of beads, just not beads that had been coated with urethane.<br />
<br />
After chatting with Everbrite, the makers of ProtectaClear, I was told to make sure the bead had time to cure...4 or 5 days, or I could put it in a 180 degree oven for about an hour and let it rest before I put it to the real test.<br />
<br />
I was naughty and poked the bead with my fake nails prior to letting it completely cure. It did dent the finish but did not break it. Yahoo! The bead has now cured, been a week, and I've been poking and scraping to my hearts content. Be aware, I have not taken anything metal, porcelain, or any other really damaging item to the bead. That would be totally unfair to the project.<br />
<br />
When we sell our handmade products, we should all be telling our customers how to take care of their new pieces, especially if they are of delicate designs. For myself, my items are delicate but sturdy. They are made to be worn, but I do tell customers they require a little bit of common sense. Don't take a dental tool to my weaves and don't let your toddler use it as a teething ring. It is a piece of art, and as such should be treated as such.<br />
<br />
Back to the bead. I used my very strong nails and pushed really hard into the surface of the bead. I did get a little dent in the finish, but not the type of dent that broke the finish. To be more accurate, the finish didn't crack. The really strange thing was that the dent seemed to fill back in after several minutes, which led me to believe that the finish had "memory." I used straight on window light in the pics to give you a clear idea of the finish.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-47YOu7-tuR8/UcB3VpG_t9I/AAAAAAAAAOA/8yx0csMgVZc/s1600/ClayBeadExp06182013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-47YOu7-tuR8/UcB3VpG_t9I/AAAAAAAAAOA/8yx0csMgVZc/s200/ClayBeadExp06182013.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YhtIME5firg/UcB3VgXkzDI/AAAAAAAAAN4/5U0hmdHdlz0/s1600/ClayBeadExp06182013b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="144" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YhtIME5firg/UcB3VgXkzDI/AAAAAAAAAN4/5U0hmdHdlz0/s200/ClayBeadExp06182013b.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JSrbf1LplMM/UcB3VuXjMZI/AAAAAAAAAN8/mCidJ0H7ILE/s1600/ClayBeadExp06182013c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="187" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JSrbf1LplMM/UcB3VuXjMZI/AAAAAAAAAN8/mCidJ0H7ILE/s200/ClayBeadExp06182013c.jpg" width="200" /></a>The same thing happened when I ran my nails across the finish to scratch it. It did get a few tiny ripples in it, but again, minutes later, they seemed to disappear. Weird, huh? But boy, was I excited about that! I put a question in to Everbrite to see if they could give me a "why" but haven't heard back yet. As soon as I do, I will update you.<br />
<br />
I did coat the bracelet and it has been four days now, and my customer is excited to get her wire jewelry bracelet. And I am thrilled for her, and for the product I love to use, ProtectaClear. I did use the regular shiny finish. FYI, Everbrite also makes a Satin finish.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qtmUkz_YqxQ/UcB4rZfl3II/AAAAAAAAAOY/v8IoViPbe2g/s1600/ClayBeadExp06182013e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="110" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qtmUkz_YqxQ/UcB4rZfl3II/AAAAAAAAAOY/v8IoViPbe2g/s200/ClayBeadExp06182013e.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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A side note, after talking to Lisa of <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/Fanceethat" target="_blank">Fanceethat</a>, if you do decide to make your own polymer clay beads, do not use this solvent based sealer as your main sealer. Over time it can or will make the polymer clay beads surface sticky. Hence, the reason she uses the water-based urethane finish to seal her beads.<br />
<br />
I promised an article on Renaissance Wax, and that's next. The washers I was going to use have mysteriously disappeared into a moving box and I want to dig them out, so I can compare different sealers to the Wax. I promise I will find them.<br />
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Till then, Stay Wired Up!!! Gail Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-60149198063050996842013-06-08T16:46:00.002-04:002013-06-08T16:46:54.086-04:00Battle of the Jewelry Sealers, Part Two...The BeadLast time I explained to you how I was going to experiment with putting a solvent based sealer over a polymer clay bead that had already been sealed with a water-based polyurethane sealer. I also posted two pictures showing how the bead looked just a few hours after I put the coating, ProtectaClear, on one side of the bead.<br />
<br />
I am here to tell you that so far so good. Here are the new pictures of the same bead. Again, there isn't much difference, except the ProtectaClear side is just a little shinier.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fgPKV7pl7bk/UbOWUmnGQMI/AAAAAAAAANc/BLfy4f_c510/s1600/PolyExp06082013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="163" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fgPKV7pl7bk/UbOWUmnGQMI/AAAAAAAAANc/BLfy4f_c510/s200/PolyExp06082013.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The original urethane coating</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AwioEnKVqNg/UbOWnaGRSBI/AAAAAAAAANk/_xvxDUOi9gU/s1600/ProtectaClearExp06082013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="168" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AwioEnKVqNg/UbOWnaGRSBI/AAAAAAAAANk/_xvxDUOi9gU/s200/ProtectaClearExp06082013.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ProtectaClear side two days out</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I did get an email from Everbrite, the manufacturers of ProtectaClear, stating that I should wait four days before I started "picking" at the finish on the bead. That will give the solvent coating plenty of time to cure, which made sense to me. Putting one type of coating on a different type of coating can take time before you really know how it will react. I could get anxious and tell you," Yeah, I see no difference," and at this time, that wouldn't be a lie. But it is the long-term effects I am curious about.<br />
<br />
I will tell you this, I was naughty and tested the surface with a fingernail, and yes, I was able to put a slight dent in the ProtectaClear finish. That was, however, before Everbrite told me I probably shouldn't. Guess I'm bad...<br />
<br />
While this experiment continues on this one little bead, I am going to be purchasing some water-based urethane to try on another copper wire piece, a beadless piece. I have read other blogs whose experiments with this materials yields varying results. Some say that over time, a water-based urethane will still let a small amount of oxygen through to the metal, especially copper, and that could cause an aging process to begin, even though it might be a minute amount or take some time to happen to the degree that might be unacceptable. We shall see.<br />
<br />
Next time I will provide you with more details on my little bead experiment, and I will start a discussion on using Renaissance Was on your wire projects. Until then...<br />
<br />
Stay Wire Up! GailAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-78714189056049929952013-06-06T18:18:00.001-04:002013-06-06T19:58:36.794-04:00Battle of the Jewelry SealersLike so many jewelry makers, I ran into a brick wall when it came to sealing my copper and silver jewelry pieces. It became a larger dilemma for me when I fell in love with the polymer clay beads from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/Fanceethat" target="_blank">Fanceethat</a>! You need to check them out...gorgeous!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNB5mF7MwsSJ23QzjfYlN2QQGM4Y1LUkfTHCgpnSbhAWmAiP-rd5j4W6rdtX9ql8FZDmGUTzZe2IlGTNUCacsN7UT0MxSAnQY0f5S1qz4rqDKkDrmOcPFk2I2jcYQ2tk7Y1vlB_zGkODk/s1600/FanceeThatCarmelTurqClayCopperWireHelix06052013b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNB5mF7MwsSJ23QzjfYlN2QQGM4Y1LUkfTHCgpnSbhAWmAiP-rd5j4W6rdtX9ql8FZDmGUTzZe2IlGTNUCacsN7UT0MxSAnQY0f5S1qz4rqDKkDrmOcPFk2I2jcYQ2tk7Y1vlB_zGkODk/s320/FanceeThatCarmelTurqClayCopperWireHelix06052013b.jpg" width="320" /></a>I ordered the beads and made the bracelet you see here. It sold right away, which I was thrilled at but then I found myself in a quandary. I knew Lisa had sealed her beads and I knew what sealer I wanted to use to protect the natural patina of the copper, that beautiful and bright natural copper color, but would the two mix??<br />
<br />
ProtectaClear by Everbrite has been my new favorite sealer for my Wire Helix Series. While I love Renaissance Wax and the protection it affords, it was really hard for me to reach all the little ins and outs of the delicate weaves and coils the Helix Series bracelets and necklaces have. That's why I've been using the ProtectaClear. I could spray or brush this tough coating on, and it provided me with the protection and finish I wanted. That little bit of shine isn't bad either.<br />
<br />
Back to the bracelet shown above. Lisa used a water-based polyurethane to seal her polymer clay beads...and trust me, that is really great! I love the look it gives the beads, and Lisa knows what she's doing. I'm the one with the problem, remember? I am storing this bracelet in an anti-tarnish bag until I'm sure I've reached a solution that is good for the bracelet and good for the customer buying this piece of jewelry.<br />
<br />
I decided to experiment on another bead I purchased from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/Fanceethat" target="_blank">Fanceethat</a>, with her permission and Everbrite's knowledge. I took this bead that had been coated with the water-based polyurethane, and put a coat of ProtectaClear on it. ProtectaClear is a resin or solvent-based sealer.<br />
<br />
What that means to the layman is this: The water-based sealers begin to harden when the water evaporates. Of course, that is simplifying it by leaps and bounds. A solvent-based sealer begins the hardening or curing process when the solvent evaporates. The curing process of both goes through a series of chemical reactions that finish the curing of the sealer. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varnish#Solvent_.28traditionally_Turpentine.29" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a> offers the best full explanation of the process if you are interested.<br />
<br />
Long story short...oil and water don't mix, usually. Even the kind folks at Everbrite, the creators of ProtectaClear, said I should proceed with caution because their finish could cause the other finish to crack or peal.<br />
<br />
Hence, my experiment. What I did was give one side of the bead a coating of ProtectaClear to see what, if any, would be the reaction. To be honest, I thought when I first applied the ProtectaClear, the polyurethane finish would crack. However, it has been over and hour, and you can see from the pictures that it hasn't...as of yet.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JlDQBGqId_I/UbEHNbQQOfI/AAAAAAAAANE/zsT1SPl7KbA/s1600/PolyExp06062013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="175" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JlDQBGqId_I/UbEHNbQQOfI/AAAAAAAAANE/zsT1SPl7KbA/s200/PolyExp06062013.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polyurethane coated side</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YaI9h1UDbLI/UbEHNRwf-pI/AAAAAAAAANI/4J0uLxaHeMY/s1600/ProtectaClearExp06062013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="178" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YaI9h1UDbLI/UbEHNRwf-pI/AAAAAAAAANI/4J0uLxaHeMY/s200/ProtectaClearExp06062013.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ProtectaClear coated side</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I did my best to get them close to the same side...sorry bout that, but you can see only a slight difference as of now. The picture on the left shows the untouched bead side, while the picture on the right is slightly shinier but the surface of the bead, itself, has been unaffected so far.<br />
<br />
It takes the ProtectaClear a little while to cure, so I am going to give it a while longer before I pass final judgement. I will poke it and scrape it with my fingernail, which you really "shouldn't" do to a bead like this, but I want it to be as thorough a test as I can with my limited knowledge and no real lab to work in.<br />
<br />
So for now, it's later gator. I will let you know how this little experiment comes out. Send me your comments if you've experienced this yourself and we'll work it out together. Until next time (real soon), Stay Wired Up!! Gail<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-54090377738391063672013-05-26T13:32:00.001-04:002013-05-26T13:32:50.432-04:00What To Do With Those New Business Cards As I've said in the past, starting a small business can be overwhelming at times. Just the thought of putting all you have to do on paper can make you want to throw in the towel before you get started. It takes determination and a "You can't beat me!" attitude.<br />
<br />
I am going to assume that if you are selling your handmade items, you already have business cards. If not, read my past posts on the subject of business card design. If your design is done and you've ordered those cards and you have those boxes in hand, you might be wondering how to get the most out of using them as marketing tools.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--r-CxLakoKs/UaJEvJwfyJI/AAAAAAAAAMg/O53RT_A4Xd8/s1600/BusCardinHand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--r-CxLakoKs/UaJEvJwfyJI/AAAAAAAAAMg/O53RT_A4Xd8/s200/BusCardinHand.jpg" width="133" /></a>Business cards are more than just something you have to pack up for shows or exhibits. They need to <br />
become your best friend. They need to go everywhere with you and be involved in every aspect of your life. Yes, even those holiday parties with friends. That may sound like overkill, but this is your business so you can choose to build it timidly or take the bulls by the horns and jump in with both feet.<br />
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I always have business cards on me and I mean "always." I may have them in a pocket or in my purse, and they are hiding in my car (I don't want them exposed when I'm not in the car. I make jewelry. That's a ticket to getting my car broken into. So use common sense.). My husband carries them and hands them to his clients, as well.<br />
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One of my favorite tricks is to leave business cards behind wherever I go. When leaving a restaurant, I leave at least one on the table. I might accidentally drop one on the floor under the table and without further thought, forget to pick it up. Am I bad? You can find my cards in ladies bathrooms, or on the floor in a clothing store. I don't make a nuisance of myself to the point they are going to call me and ask me to quit. I'm pretty discreet and work at being non-offensive. But hey, it is my business and I want the peeps to know where I am and what I do and where they can find my product.<br />
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Another trick I use, which is fairly easy because I make jewelry, is to wear a piece or two into a store and keep touching it. Some people will notice. If not, I might walk up to a sales person that isn't busy and ask what she thinks of the piece. I will tell her a little of what I do and that I just finished it and can't decide if I like it or not. I ask for her opinion. Nine times out of ten she will get excited and ask if I have a website. That leads straight into the business card handout.<br />
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After you've handed someone your card, be sure to tell the potential client that you are always adding to or changing things on your websites, so they should be sure to bookmark your site so she/he can check it regularly. Will she do it? Maybe not. But always be on the lookout for that one customer that becomes a fan and a regular shopper. They are out there. There is always someone out there that will love what you do.<br />
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When at a show, make sure you put at least one card in a shopper's bag, and leave plenty laying around your tables. Some sellers think their cards need to be in a card holder, but they don't. I have told many people to be sure to take a card, just to see them fumble around my booth looking for the card holder, while disrupting the shopping of other clients. So now I put at least six smaller stacks tactfully around my tables, where they will be within easy reach, no matter where the customer is standing. I put my two card holders on the left and right entrance into my booth.<br />
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When mailing out an order, use one business card back for a thank you message and add another card for good measure. If you are exchanging information with someone, write your info on the back of your business card and hand it to them. If they don't have anything to write on, use another one of your cards. They will turn it over, if only for a split second. That is true marketing...the more impressions a person gets of your business, the more apt they are to remember it.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-actIKlmhgJE/UaJFMGjnQhI/AAAAAAAAAMo/ySzvv7N_tPc/s1600/TwoMenBusCardExchange.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-actIKlmhgJE/UaJFMGjnQhI/AAAAAAAAAMo/ySzvv7N_tPc/s1600/TwoMenBusCardExchange.png" /></a>If I need to use a repairman in my home, I exchange business cards with them and tell them to hand it to someone special in their family or use my website for gift-giving. Most men will throw them away, but a few don't and hand them over or use them themselves. You are looking for just one...that one that will make a purchase.<br />
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Your friends might think you're a little weird...like me...but put some cards out during a holiday party. If your friends reprimand you for doing so, and if the party is at YOUR house, they probably aren't much of a friend anyway. Ugh...I love people who support the cause! They don't have to be a top customer, but they should support your enthusiasm for wanting to be a success small business owner.<br />
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Have you ever walked into your dry cleaners or favorite restaurant and seen an area where you can leave business cards? If you've been smart and not used your home address and phone number, feel free to leave a small stack of cards there. Again, I recommend discretion. Make sure that you aren't leaving your personal information behind that might add risk to your life or business.<br />
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The main point of this post is to let you know that it's okay to use your business cards as a strong marketing tool, and don't be afraid to do so. They are not a huge expense, and they are one of the quickest ways to market your business. Here are my four B's for business card marketing...Be Brave, Be Bold, Be Consistent, and Be Smart, and you can create a great avenue for driving up your business sales.<br />
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Stay Wired Up! Gail<br />
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6556050904852988255.post-10716819202003474182013-05-16T12:43:00.000-04:002013-05-16T12:43:57.740-04:00And Life Goes On...It has been awhile since I have taken time to sit and write, so please forgive my lack of diligence and what seems like my lack of concern. I was thinking yesterday how I needed to get back to the blog and business at hand, but moving my entire life, and then some, to another state some 1500 miles away kept getting in the way. ugh...<br />
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Earlier today, however, while out in the garage getting more packing boxes, I tripped over the cord to the power washer my husband was using, (Okay, I'm not great at picking up my feet!) and I took a fall squarely onto my left knee. Now, this knee and I have a history of issues. It has been kicked by horses, drained, run into by my Australian Shepherd at a dead run, drained, and fallen upon...and drained more than once. Oh, don't worry...we will both be fine!<br />
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Long story short, God works in mysterious ways, as I now sit on the sofa, knee resting comfortably on a pillow with an ice bag and towel placed directly on the now swelling and painful hematoma that is forming on my knee. My husband got me a cup of coffee and my computer and here I am. Isn't it amazing that I found time...or was given time.<br />
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The moral of this story is...sometimes we need to slow down our lives in order to accomplish the things we "need" to do that might not otherwise get done in an optimum time frame.<br />
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We, as human beings, whether we are in business or not, whether we are artists or not, sometimes forget what is important. We get busy with our everyday lives or with designing or making the things we love to make. If we work from home, we might forget to do the little things, like brush our hair or get out of our sweatsuit, just because we become so enthralled with the tasks at hand. We ignore the tiny voice in our heads that nags at us to take care of the little things, or just to take twenty minutes for ourselves to soak in a bath. Then, the practice of blocking out our inner voice soon deadens it to a whisper or kills it all together.<br />
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It shouldn't sound so bleak, and to most of you it probably sounds like I have made a mountain out of a mole hill. The reality is that I know "I" need to re-prioritize my time, especially if I am in so much of a hurry that I don't think to pick up my feet and end up injured, just to find time to do what I really want...to be able to share with all of you.<br />
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If you are in any kind of business, whether you work from home or not, there are times when you need to stop in your tracks, no matter where you are, and just...breathe! I picture some of you in the cities stopping on the sidewalk, in the midst of all that foot traffic, closing your eyes, pointing your chin upward, and breathing deeply, which, by the way, should put a very large smile on your face.<br />
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What you've done is taken a few seconds to lighten your soul, to rejuvenate your spirit, and to reorganize your thoughts. You might have even started a trend, not only for yourself, but for those around you who witnessed your "moment." Then again, who cares what "they" think. Just do it for yourself. Do it when you feel you need to. Do it when you don't think you need to. Your work will benefit, you family will benefit...and most of all...YOU will benefit from this seemingly insignificant process. What can it hurt? I dare you to try it!<br />
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Hugs to you all...and Stay Wired Up! GailAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07264434637349954230noreply@blogger.com0